ELECTIMUSS
SPICE D’ARNO

2024

PERFUMER
Celine Barel

pink pepper
bergamot
lemon
cardamom
elemi

leather
bran absolute
cistus absolute
thyme
iris
orange blossom

oud
vanilla
myrrh
cashmeran

‘Spice D’Arno is a rhythmical composition which moves like the flow of the river for which it is named. Opening with the invigorating tones of bergamot, lemon and pink pepper, Spice D’Arno evokes the lively energy of a new adventure about to begin. The scent gently meanders its way into a sophisticated heart bursting with thyme and cistus, softened with a comforting and soothing bran absolute. The cistus pays homage to the tenacity of the Roman adventurers, adding a floral, sweet and woody character to the warmth of bran and the leathery savoury aspect of thyme. In the base of Spice D’Arno a ribbon of sweetness comes in the form of excitingly resinous vanilla which is warm and embracing. This is strengthened and supported by a leathery tone. A discrete yet mighty oud facet completes the composition, lending power and weight to the fragrance and ensuring the lasting power to stay the course.’ – Electimuss

Spice D’Arno is a more mass appealing and more easy going release versus some of the ones that came before it (Vanilla Edesia, Aquila Absolute). Definitely easier on the nose, than one may expect given the notes and brand description.

Spice D’Arno, somewhat contrary to their names, feels much more instantly like a vanilla fragrance, than surprisingly spicy and woody Vanilla Edesia did and it’s less heavy on the spiciness, than the cardamom-bomb Aquila Absolute was. Here, it’s the most balanced, with a sweet, vanillic scent from the get go, softer spices and a leather tinge.

I like the leather accord here; it’s prominent throughout, but it’s not rough or heavy. It has a herbal side to it, like a leather scented shampoo, and it’s surrounded by softness and sweetness. At least for the opening, as it gets warmer as it dries down.

The brand speaks of a ‘ribbon of sweetness in the base’, but this has a designer-esque nondescript cloud of sweet from the very first minute on my skin. Even though I like Spice D’Arno a lot and I don’t like any of the Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male style combinations of aromatic and sweet, it does feel like they come from a similar origin. Luckily, Spice D’Arno never gets that typical, bubblegummy tinge, making it feel more mature, but it does feel like an upgraded version of a scent profile that one would find in a Sephora to my nose.

Perhaps this is feeling all the more so, because of the soft, mushy texture. Aside from the leather cutting through, nothing in Spice D’Arno feels like it has corners or jumps out at you. It’s a nondescript, abstract bubble, which is not a bad thing here, as it keeps otherwise potentially daring notes on the safe and cozy side. At least for me, as someone who doesn’t often go for leather fragrances, Spice D’Arno makes for a wearable balance. As mentioned, in the drydown, the herbal side has faded completely and it becomes a warmer, sweet and woody leather.

I truly appreciated Vanille Edesia and Aquila Absolute even more, but both were fragrance that I wouldn’t reach for easily, whereas Spice D’Arno feels less special, but would get the most wears. I can think of it as a more masculine leaning (albeit it unisex by any definition) counterpart to Vixere, another one of the brands most accessible releases and one of my favorites. I think Electimuss has had a good mix of various types of fragrances in their line-up so far and Spice D’Arno adds to that nicely.