NESHAMA
SOULS ON FIRE: OSMANTHUS FLORAL

2022

PERFUMER
Simon Shaer

egyptian jasmine absolute
tobacco absolute
thai osmanthus absolute
pink pepper
civet

Osmanthus Floral was one of the finalists of the artisinal Art and Olfaction awards and rightfully so. It’s my favorite from Neshama so far (followed by Sandalwood Oud and then Jasmine & Tobacco).

This opens as one of the sexiest jasmine fragrances I’ve come across. I say jasmine, because although I definitely get the namesake osmanthus, this reminds me most of some of yesteryear’s skanky jasmine and civet combinations, like my vintage Jean Patou Joy Parfum.

The osmanthus seems to add more of a fruity tinge, but what I love most about Osmanthus Floral is that it feels warm and smooth. Often when you get a slightly daring floral like this, it can be a bit grating or even pissy, but here, it’s warm, soft, smooth and even sweet.

Even though it has that skanky tinge, I’d definitely wouldn’t call this fragrance challenging, especially after the first 5 minutes. When I saw this composition uses tobacco, it started to register more and more as a sweet tobacco to me, albeit with a a slight indolic surprise, but that mostly adds some depth.

The brand’s imagery and descriptions are based on a sunset, and that feels very fitting. Given the notes, there’s more levity that I’d expect and there’s an almost golden lining to the composition.

Absolutely wonderful creation. If you’re looking for a more spicy, dry tobacco sensation, check out Jasmine & Tobacco.