DRIES VAN NOTEN
SOIE MALAQUAIS

2022

PERFUMER
Marie Salamagne

blackcurrant
Bergamot

Silk
Rose

Chestnut
Cacao

‘I fell in love with Dries’ silk dresses in his Quai Malaquais boutique. The texture was so fluid it merged with the skin, which gave me the idea for a silky, enveloping perfume, a mix of chestnut with sensual vanilla.’ – Marie Salamagne

I’ve tried the Dries van Noten line twice in store now and have to say I wasn’t impressed for the most part. Both times my favorite on first impression was Soie Malaquais, so I took home a sample for further testing.

This one opens floral, almost bubblegummy with a lot of vanilla as well. It is not as sweet as I originally thought; but it is very creamy and lactonic. It’s like ice cream or whipped cream, but with a fruity and sharper twist.

After several minutes on my skin this settles into something more akin to a sun tan lotion and not so much into a gourmand at all. There’s a chestnut whipped cream vibe to some extent, but not nearly as drinkable/edible as in Masque Milano Madeleine for example.

Too much of a sun tan lotion aesthetic for my taste (which is nice, but very common) and it leans more feminine than I expected based on my very first impressions. Soie Malaquais could still be the best Dries van Noten, but I’m not in love.