GUERLAIN
SANTAL PAO ROSA

2021

PERFUMER
Delphine Jelk

Cardamom
fig
rose
Oud
Myrrh
Nutty Notes
sandalwood

Santal Pao Rosa has what is sometimes referred to as a ‘pickle sandalwood’; most notably (and notoriously) known for the cucumber vibe in Santal 33. It has this green, spiciness to it. In part from the cardamom, but there is a slightly sour tinge that makes the opening my least favorite part of the wear.

As it dries down it gets significantly better; with a dry sandalwood and fig combination that reminds me a little bit of BDK Gris Charnel, although it takes the Guerlain longer to get sweeter and it never goes nearly as sweet as Gris Charnel. Instead it remains greener, spicier and brighter at the same time.

In the mid I get a lot of dry, suede leather from Santal Pao Rosa. A powdery, spicy, leathery wood. I do get the rose in here, but it’s overpowered by other things (I seem to get more suede and less rose than other’s I’ve spoken to).

Santal Pao Rosa has some roundness to it, with the fig, the myrrh, the sweetness; it does not come across as minimal or ‘industrial’ as for example Santal 33, but I think its woodiness does (and does not ring ‘Guerlain’ to my nose). Or at least, I think Santal Pao Rosa would’ve fit in more with their Les Absolus d’Orient collection.

If you like your spices (cardamom in particular) and sharp woodiness (dry sandalwood and very ‘Westernized’ oud), this could be a great option, with good performance. For me, it doesn’t really align with what I’d want from it.