MATIERE PREMIERE
SANTAL AUSTRAL EXTRAIT

2024

PERFUMER
Aurelien Guichard

black cardamom absolute
sandalwood
benzoin absolute
almond milk
iris absolute
tonka bean absolute

An extrait flanker to Santal Austral EDP (2019). Part of the first 5 Matiere Premiere Extraits: Santal Austal, Radical Rose, Crystal Saffron, Falcon Leather & Encens Suave.

‘One common creative approach for all the Extraits de Parfum:
– a higher perfume concentration
– a higher dosage of the central main ingredient
– the addition of a guest ingredient to bring a new facet to the note’ – Matiere Premiere

‘I’ve used a Black Cardamom Absolute that was exclusively developed for MATIERE PREMIERE. It brings a unique intensity, both smoky and woody. It takes Santal Austral to more spicy and vibrant territories.’ – Aurelien Guichard

I must admit that I never gave Santal Austral EDP as much wear time as I probably should’ve (and therefore I never reviewed it). I remember mostly that I found it pleasant, but because I had high expectations of it, it didn’t do it for me. Not as a reference sandalwood, which I was hoping for. Now we have the Extrait flanker, with added tonka bean, which I of course gave a proper wearing.

And frankly, my thoughts are quite similar. I like it, it’s a nice, cozy, woody scent, with even more sweetness in the Extrait. There is a time during the wear (in the middle of the wear) where I enjoy Santal Austral Extrait the most.

In the opening, you get most of the ‘forest’ experience in my opinion, with ever so slightly mossy or green hints (like vetiver), that camphor edge. This is only briefly and very subtle though. What follows is a woody sensation that for me leans into wood shavings with a growing sweetness. In combination with the iris, I was reminded of Atelier des Ors Iris Fauve for a moment. That’s before it goes much more milky.

A lot of people relate sandalwood to lactonic qualities and as this dries down further, they are there in abundance. The milky tonka bean sweetness starts to overtake the composition and I actually found it a bit too much eventually; it loses the woodiness too much for my liking. That being said, it’s a cozy wear and I enjoyed it for what it was; I still wasn’t wowed by it.