BORTNIKOFF
SANTA SANGRE

2021

PERFUMER
Dmitry Bortnikov
Rajesh Balkrishnan

Jasmine Sambac
Pink Grapefruit
Vanilla orchid

Pink Lotus
White Lotus

Dragon’s Blood
Sandalwood
benzoin

Santa Sangre was a really nice surprise and it might be my favorite Bortnikoff at the time of writing.

Opening with a dense, but instantly sweet, thick wave of scent, I was caught a bit off-guard. Santa Sangre has a combination of floral, vanilla and citrus that I’ve rarely encountered. It’s very sweet and lactonic, at times reminding me off a vanilla milkshake or white chocolate. At the same time, the grapefruit cuts right through, giving it a hint of a (yoghurt mixed) smoothie.

What’s most notable is the balmy texture. This is a rare occasion where I enjoy this style of balmy, band-aid-esque resinous texture; it just works so well in combination with the sweetness and lighter touches of the grapefruit and florals.

The florals are hard to describe; they pop up at times, but they are not as noticeable as one might expect. The sweetness is the main component to me. As it dries further, the sweetness moves into more of a powdery tonka vibe, that’s still very pleasant, albeit less interesting than the first hour(s) when the citrus is still projecting.

I can see certain people in the Bortnikoff audience not loving this style, because of how vanillic it is, but I think it will appeal all the more to a broader audience. I, for one, was pleasantly surprised.