WIDIAN
SAMAR

2025

PERFUMER
Philippine Courtiere

bergamot
raspberry
pink pepper
clove

gardenia
jasmine
osmanthus
cinnamon

labdanum
patchouli
vanilla
oud

‘A smokey sweet master piece crafted by the talented Philippine Courtiere inspired by the desert tradition of gathering around the fire at winter cold nights.’ – Widian

Widian has been releasing solid fragrances consistently; the ones I’ve reviewed in the past 2-3 years have all been nice, but none truly wowed me or felt like they were ‘for me’. Samar changes that and I think it’s my favorite from the brand. I’m reviewing this in February, but I can’t imagine Samar not making it pretty high on my favorites list at the end of the year.

Instantly, this fragrance feels intriguing. Not a style we get to see all too often. Piercing, metallic, sweet and fiery at the same time, but executed in a sophisticated way. It doesn’t stay as interesting throughout – the opening has most of the surprise and it’s my favorite part – but overall, Samar intrigued me more than most new releases in a while.

I found it hard to describe even the main theme of Samar, let alone describe the scent. There is a more traditionally masculine leaning cologne in here, with a modern warm base. And there are unexpected florals and a slightest hint of fruitiness. For me, the floral heart defines this fragrance most of all. They provide their usual floral, brighter and even delicate nuances, but it’s paired with a metallic, smokey, daring side. Mirroring some vintage sensual jasmines that I’ve smelled (like in my Jean Patou Joy Parfum), but also the more Eastern styled florals, such as champaca. In particular, I’m reminded a tiny bit of Prissana Mandarava, my favorite work of Prin Lomros.

But whereas those fragrances are usually hefty, in-your-face and slightly dirty, Samar is clean, constrained and easier going. Initially it has a brighter tinge, with a nice bergamot and as mentioned, there are touches of a traditional cologne that give it a formal edge. Followed by a lot of sweetness, but not in a sugary or gourmand manner. This has a light, but fiery amber and it works in tandem with the fresher side. There’s no tuberose listed in the notes, but I could picture a bubblegummy tuberose hiding in here providing a fleshy, floral sweetness.

The more it dries, the more the amber base takes away from the sharpness and brightness. It’s the least interesting part to my taste, but there is enough intrigue left to carry it through the day.

Samar is as if Widian (or Philippine Courtiere) created a daring, skanky floral-oud and then diluted it enough to become easier to wear and bring it into more familiar territory for the average (Western) wearer. Yet, the metallic smokiness and deep florals give Samar an edge that elevates it to more of a work of art and less of a utilitarian product.

Wishlist potential.