ANGELOS CREATIONS OLFACTIVES
Salon dt

2021

PERFUMER
Angelos Balamis

bergamot
lemongrass
pink grapefruit
blackcurrant
raspberry
Violet absolute

raspberry leaf absolute
ho wood
blue chamomile
mimosa absolute
jasmine absolute
black tea absolute
green tea
mate absolute
osmanthus absolute
orris
clary sage
nutmeg

musk
orange blossom absolute
muguet
beeswax absolute
sandalwood
blond tobacco accord

‘Salon dt is a pun on Salon de Thé, using dt as a reference to my scientific background. It is of course a creation based on several varieties of tea and other herbs infusions/ beverages. It starts with a blast of Earl Grey tea with the addition of a red fruits blend and transforms into a floral and herbal delicacy with Osmanthus, Mimosa and Jasmine Absolutes along with 3 varieties of Chamomile and spiced up with Nutmeg. Finally dries down to a Fleur D Oranger and Muguet honeyed with Beeswax absolute, Sandalwood and Musky based hand cream.’ – Angelos

I heard lots of good things about Angelos after 2024’s Esxence event, so it was on my radar. I had the pleasure to try them and meet with Angelos at Paris Perfume week. My favorites on first impression were his iris (Irida & Irida Extrait), an upcoming release and this Salon dt.

This is a scent centered around tea. As you can likely tell by the color, this is an indie house with more focus on the use of great ingredients. That makes this a much more substantial and ‘leafy’ tea scent than the easy going watery fragrances we often see with tea. It wears more like a tobacco fragrance.

The scent is unmistakable tea though. Bergamot (Earl Grey) and lemon-esque citrus is prominent at first, with instantly the bitter side of tea leafs in the mix. There are also a black tea absolute, green tea & mate absolute used. It is quite spicy and slightly herbal. Especially when I smell it up close, I get the soft fruitiness; probably mostly raspberry from the notes listed.

There is a honeyed sweetness here throughout, but it’s not like the sweet tobacco scents such as Parfums de Marly Herod or Xerjoff Naxos. Much more like a honeyed tea and it doesn’t take away from the other facets as much, with some fruity, citrussy tinges hanging on.

Easily one of the best tea-inspired scents I’ve ever come across. Quite dark in comparison to other tea scents, but at the same time, it doesn’t wear heavy. It’s ‘only’ 15% concentration, which I think is working to its benefit here in creating some levity.