BDK
ROUGE SMOKING
2018
PERFUMER
Amelie Bourgeois
Cherry
Pink Pepper
Bergamot
Black Vanilla
Heliotrope
Orange Blossom
Tonka Bean
cashmeran
White Musk
Ambroxan
Labdanum
Violet
Let me preface this review by stating that the whole cherry-vanilla and almond style isn’t my cup of tea usually (although later I discovered and enjoyed State of Mind Spontaneous Generosity and my favorite is probably New Notes Latte di Cherry anno 2024).
From the first spray, I knew I wasn’t going to love Rouge Smoking, although I later found the drydown to be quite pleasant. The opening however, is cloying to me, with a candy cherry and sweetness mix. I’d say the almond/heliotrope vibe is understated in this composition. It leans far into gourmand territory. There’s spice as well; my mind went to cinnamon.
To me, the opening is too sweet, too vibrant and almost bubblegummy; it comes across youthful and it makes me think of cloyingly sweet designer fragrances. That being said, the quality seems to be great and it has an interesting texture; it feels powdery, yet thick at the same time. Luckily, as it dries down, the intensity of the scent tones down.
The cherry remains, but it’s less pronounced and the sweetness is less ‘in your face’. I don’t pick up on much other notes or nuances, aside from the spices sticking out a bit more. There were a few wafts where I got the distinct cashmeran scent (dear brands, can we please stop calling it cashmere wood or cashmere leather). It doesn’t overpower in this composition though and it’s not unpleasant.
My favorite thing about Rouge Smoking is that I’ve seen almost anyone mention smokiness (or the lack thereof). It shows how easily influenced we humans are, as the title doesn’t refer to smokiness, but to a clothing smoking, as in a tuxedo. I definitely don’t get smokiness from the fragrance and besides maybe the labdanum, I don’t think there is supposed to be smokiness in this fragrance.
So overall, the quality is there, performance was very good on my skin and I’m pretty sure this would be a crowd-pleaser, especially among women. It’s just not something I would ever wear and I have a feeling this will be divisive, but at the same time popular, in the same way that Baccarat Rouge is. If you like cherry in fragrances, ranging from Dior Hypnotic Poison to Guerlain L’Homme Ideal EDP, this is a must try. If you don’t enjoy that style of fragrances, don’t get aboard the hypetrain just yet.