BYREDO
Night Veils – Rouge Chaotique
2023
saffron
blackcurrant
lemon
bergamot
leather
praline
plum
oud
papyrus
patchouli
oakwood
‘The latest member in Veils line is “Rouge Chaotique,” a gourmand oud fragrance that is both wild and sweet. The new fragrance reflects Ben Gorham’s diverse creative beliefs and boasts powerful notes that collide with dynamic fruity underpinnings. Rouge Chaotique begins with rich saffron, succulent blackcurrant, acidic bergamot, and smooth leather top notes. At the fragrance’s heart, sugared gourmand touches are crafted from alluring plums and pralines, while intense agarwood, earthy patchouli, and spiced papyrus reside at the base for strong all-day longevity.’ – Byredo
I went into Rouge Chaotique not knowing what to expect, but that was pretty clear within the first minute or two.
Rouge Chaotique is a very fruit-heavy ‘oud’, in the same family as an Oud For Greatness. Sweet to the point of cloying, definitely too sweet for my taste.
Saffron is a huge part of this composition, going almost leathery in the base. Although it’s so sweet and fruity, that it doesn’t really register as a leather fragrance.
Despite having a lot of saffron and smelling like fruit candy, I don’t think it’s similar to Baccarat Rouge 540 overall (thought I’d mention, given that’s what most people on Fragrantica compared it to). It has a shared element for sure, but different vibes still overall.
As mentioned, this goes in the Oud For Greatness, Haltane direction more. I might prefer Rouge Chaotique. The fruitiness is somewhat saved from a cloying syrupy mess, by the plum/cassis adding some maturity and more importantly, a desperately needed bit of acidity to cut through the sweetness.
Praline is listed, but this doesn’t go in a nutty or chocolately direction at all. Maybe some vanilla, but mostly sugary and fruity candy.
Perhaps a step above Vanille Antique, which fell apart in the drydown for me, but overall, not an interesting style (anymore) and one that’s too cloying for my taste. Unlike the older Night Veils releases, which seemed to be more mature and interesting, Byredo seems to has been steering this line into the popular sweet market.
Maybe with a more hefty or skanky oud (like the opening of Amouage King Blue) I would’ve enjoyed this more. Or if it was more focus on the plum-leather instead of the sweetness. As it stands, this is a forgettable release to me.