ATELIER DES ORS
ROSE OMEYYADE

2015

PERFUMER
Marie Salamagne

Rose
Raspberry
Pink Pepper

Brown sugar
Guaiac Wood
Patchoulie

Oud
Amber
Sandalwood

Based on the notes I was pretty sure that I would love this one as well and sure enough, I do…with one caveat, it’s not the most unique fragrance and ultimately not one of my favorites from this excellent house.

Rose Omeyyade is a sweet rose. It has an oud component as many rose fragrances do, but the oud in here is of the mildest variety. There’s nothing challenging or harsh in this fragrance and the rose itself is soft and smooth.

The candied rose is similar in scent to the one in Frederic Malle Portrait Of A Lady, but it does not have that sparkling, almost palpable quality in the opening. I don’t know if what I’m about to say makes sense to anyone, but Portrait Of A Lady feels yellow or green to me, whereas Rose Omeyyade feels pink or red. I think it has a lot to do with the amber, which adds quite a bit of warmth to the composition.

There’s a brown sugar note listed, but honestly, I don’t get a particularly special or different scent compared to other sweet roses that I’ve tried. What is clearly noticeable and different however, is the raspberry. I forgot this contained raspberry and initially I couldn’t pinpoint what was different. It has a distinct fruity touch and I think that’s the key differentiator for Rose Omeyyade.

Not that I feel like it’s a complete copy otherwise, but it is stacked up against a legion of sweet rose (often with oud) fragrances and I’m not sure if it does enough to stand out or be the better option. For me, Portrait Of A Lady is unbeatable, but it is more pronounced. And I have Oud Satin Mood, which is much heavier on the sweetness and the oud than Rose Omeyyade is. They are more exciting and I think I like both of those a bit better purely based on scent, however, if you’re looking for a softer wear, that’s an easier grab for most occasions, Rose Omeyyade becomes a choice.