GUERLAIN
Rose Centifolia Extrait 1

2023

PERFUMER
Thierry Wasser
Delphine Jelk

rose de mai Absolute
Almond
Honey
Patchouli
Frankincense

Rose Centifolia was my third sample of the Les Extraits Signature line after Tonka Sarrapia and Bergamote Fantastico. Both beautiful, but not wowing me or feeling worth it as much as I’d hoped. Rose Centifolia was one that I had higher hopes for and I’m glad to say, I think it’s outstanding; especially in the first hours.

I love how many facets of the rose shine all at once here. First and foremost, I get a clear, red/pink rose petal. Soft, classy, not too light or airy. It’s flanked by a honeyed sweetness.

I happened to wear Amouage Rose Aqor the same day, which has a similar combination, but the rose there is much greener at first.

Instead, in Rose Centifolia, there are more earthy facets, with a warmer overall feeling. What I perhaps love most however, is the citrussy, oily component. Reminiscent of one of my favorite roses, Jazeel Ghala.

People have likened this to Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady quite often. As a matter of fact, people can’t seem to come to any consensus on what Rose Centifolia reminds them off, and I 100% understand that. For the first hours, I’d say it’s absolutely much closer to Rose Tonnerre in style instead. A darker, earthier, sort of fruit-stew kind of rose. However, as the wear progresses, more of the brighter and greener Portrait Of A Lady comes through as well.

I find the transition almost the opposite of what you would expect (and had a similar experience with Bergamote Fantastico).

One that needs more wears for sure, but definitely a more interesting and nicer release to wear on it’s own than the other two from this line that I’ve tried at the time of writing. A stunning rose that I think most rose-lovers will greatly appreciate.