MATIERE PREMIERE
RADICAL ROSE

2020

PERFUMER
Aurelien Guichard

Rose Centifolia
Patchouli
Saffron
Labdanum
Pepper

‘INITIAL IDEA : “An Overdose of Rose Absolute” MAIN INGREDIENT : Rose Centifolia Absolute France, extracted from roses organically grown by MATIERE PREMIERE. CREATIVE APPROACH : Work on the highest concentration in the world of Rose Centifolia Absolute. Exacerbate the bright, spicy facets of the Rose with Saffron and Pepper Berries Essence Jamaica. Highlight the dark, woody facets with patchouli Indonesia and Labdanum Absolute Andalusia.’ – Matiere Premiere

I went back and forth between the Matiere Premiere releases for which I liked most, but Radical Rose won me over to be my absolute favorite. In my opinion Radical Rose holds up amongst the better rose fragrances and it’s still my favorite Matiere Premiere anno 2024. The Radical Rose Extrait is also nice.

Radical Rose is essentially a rose-heavy rose-patchouli scent. It opens vibrant and natural smelling, jammy, but soft. It is very sweet. After 2 years I started to find my bottle to have gone a bit more sugary than I’d ideally see.

It remains floral, but aside from rose and patchouli, saffron is what I get. Strongly perceivable saffron closer to the skin (in an unexpected way reminding me of Nishane Nefs), but in the air the rose and patchouli are dominant.

It’s a full-bodied rose. More ‘red’ than Frederic Malle Portrait Of A Lady, not as heavy as Dior Oud Ispahan, but not as fruity and sweet as Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood. It sits in between everything. A similar experience can be found in Boadicea the Victorious Ardent.

If you’re looking for a sweet rose offering that’s right down the middle unisex, this is one of my top recommendations.