MATIERE PREMIERE
RADICAL ROSE EXTRAIT
2024
PERFUMER
Aurelien Guichard
pepper
saffron
immortelle absolute
Rose Centifolia
Patchouli
Labdanum
An extrait flanker to Radical Rose EDP (2020). Part of the first 5 Matiere Premiere Extraits: Santal Austal, Radical Rose, Crystal Saffron, Falcon Leather & Encens Suave.
‘One common creative approach for all the Extraits de Parfum:
– a higher perfume concentration
– a higher dosage of the central main ingredient
– the addition of a guest ingredient to bring a new facet to the note’ – Matiere Premiere
‘I chose Immortelle for its very pronounced character, between salt and flower. It highlights a deeper, more robust side of the rose note, adding a darker, more mineral aspect to Radical Rose.’ – Aurelien Guichard
To be fair, I wasn’t overly enthusiastic about this line of extraits getting released, as it signifies yet another brand (that I generally enjoy) adding a higher priced collection of flankers, which rarely ends up being worth it. Radical Rose Extrait was the main reason I was interested in trying them out though, given that Radical Rose was my favorite from the EDP’s and the addition of immortelle felt more interesting than most others in the new collection.
Does it deliver? I would say it does, but especially in the its first hour. Otherwise, it’s a nice, but perhaps unnecessary upgrade over the EDP.
Those opening moments, I thought I was getting something really special here, and in line with what I wanted more from in Radical Rose. The rose felt a bit more dynamic; it was always the highlight of the fragrance, but in the Extrait it opens livelier, with more of a citrussy and perhaps even green edge accompanying the vibrant jammy red core. I absolutely loved it and it added a welcome hint of acidity. However, within the hour, it wears the same as in the EDP on my skin.
The main difference otherwise is a bit surprising to me; I find it sweeter and smoother. I don’t really get immortelle that much and the saffron may feel a smidge toned down as well? I think the higher concentration makes for a more oily, thick, but smooth scent, so the sharpness of the spices and leathery side are rounded more.
It creates an even sweeter Radical Rose, but I do prefer this sort of oily, creamy ambery sweetness over the more sugary side that has crept up more and more in my EDP bottle after some years. My main gripe with the Radical Rose DNA has been that the beautiful rose gets taken down a notch by how prominent the sweet, ambery, woody and saffron facets get and that hasn’t changed with the Extrait.
In conclusion: Nicer and more dynamic opening, similar (still nice) rose after, improved sweetness throughout (but it didn’t need the sweetness for me). The quality seems good. Performance is good: I have it on skin for 8 hours at the time of writing and it’s still going strong. On one hand, a rare win where the flanker for a fragrance that I already love does feel like an improvement and I’d like to have it in my collection. On the other hand, already having the EDP, the €350 price point for the Extrait makes it a tough sell; one that I’m not considering, despite the positive impression.
Sidenote: Another fragrance that could be a good alternative is Boadicea The Victorious Ardent, which I happened to receive the week prior… Boadicea always gets commented on for being overly expensive, but Ardent is a full €100 cheaper than this Radical Rose Extrait and that puts this in a rough position.