ACQUA DI PARMA
PROFUMO

1930

Bergamot
Peony
ylang-ylang

Labdanum
Bulgarian Rose
Jasmine

Vetiver
Sandalwood
Patchouli
Musk

Profumo was re-released in 2000 and 2009.

This DNA was originally released in 1930. It has since been re-released multiple times and this review is not for a vintage bottle, but it recaptures vintage chypres extraordinarily well.

Profumo is often compared to Guerlain Mitsouko and I can see why. I don’t think it smells much like current day Mitsouko (there’s no peach), but the sweeter, aged Mitsouko’s feel familiar, although my bottle of Profumo has stayed greener. Initially, I think this reminds me most of my 1970 bottle of Miss Dior.

Green, sparkling and tropical florals. Lemon, bergamot, ylang-ylang and jasmine stand out to me. With (green) rose taking over more of the floral scent later on. There’s a bit of soapiness, but it’s not airy or watery. This has a richness, mossy and spicy quality that feels less contemporary. There is the slightest hint of skank (cumin, civet-esque) to my nose as well at first.

Most importantly, it gets sweet. Honey or incense is not listed, but it’s definitely a strong honeyed floral with that tropical tinge of the ylang-ylang. It grows sweeter than my Miss Dior and closer here to my vintage Mitsouko.

Sweet, but sophisticated. A chypre for the ages. In one of the better presentations as a bonus.