BENIGNA
PREMIER AMOUR

2020

PERFUMER
Cecile Zarokian

Heliotrope
Tonka Bean
Clove
Tuberose
Precious Woods
Bergamot

Premier Amour opens much different than I expected. For a couple of minutes it feels very floral, stemmy, almost vegetal. There’s a greenness. Sweetness is also present from the start, but in the opening it’s like a dewy, honey, mimosa-esque sweetness to my nose.

It’s also very subtle; I have to be honest, when I first sprayed this on, I barely smelled anything. I reapplied heavily and still though it was very subtle. What happens though, is that most of the scent seems to come out after 20-30 minutes; it grows. Actually becoming quite long-lasting.

When this happens, the floral tone slowly gets overtaken by a vanilla-esque tonka sweetness. You do still get floral, but the green fades and sweetness takes over. Heliotrope is one of the key notes here, but it’s less (baby)powdery than I’m used to; it feels more viscous, syrupy. It’s a good combination with the lighter floral element (which I can’t pinpoint, although tuberose is the listed note). Without the contrast, this would go overly sweet and feel more conventional, but I think in Premier Amour it’s an understated, mature type sweet fragrance. As it dries further, I get more of a clean, dry (blonde) woody vibe.

Fragrances that it somewhat reminds me of are Liquides Imaginaires Blanche Bete & Noeme Aman.

Despite my initial response, the longevity is actually good, although I feel projection is on the moderate side. It’s listed as EDP at 22% concentration, but behaves like an extrait.

I’d say the only factor that’s up for debate as to how great this is, is it’s pricing (which in my opinion isn’t fully justified).