ATELIER MATERI
POIVRE POMELO

2019

PERFUMER
Marie Hugentobler

Grapefruit
Timut Pepper
Pink Pepper

Angelica
Peony
Osmanthus

Mate
Vetiver
Cedarwood

A lot is in the name here; pepper and citrus. Which is a combination I can get behind, especially when the citrus in question is pomelo, which is a note that I’ve been enjoying in several fragrances (the most in Atelier Des Ors Pomelo Riviera).

Poivre Pomelo deviates from the fully bright, sparkling citrus freshie; it’s not as zesty and acidic as the Atelier Des Ors for example. Rather it’s a softer, almost syrupy and soapy grapefruit scent, with, you guessed it, a hefty dose of peppers, which works in tandem with the bitterness. Timut and pink pepper are listed in the notes.

The pepper is definitely on the sharp side, as most peppers are. Up close it tickles your nostrils, but from a distance it smells great. I think it’s the mate here that gives the fragrance a slightly roasted, bitter or even burned sensation, while being fresh at the same time. After about an hour, the florals became more and more prominent to my nose. There’s peony and osmanthus, but also something greener, which combined with the peppers, create a heavily dilluted and light coriander type scent to me. As I mentioned, the citrus isn’t as sparkling and punchy, but it does last for a couple of hours, which is a huge plus for me in a scent like this.

As with Cacao Porcelana from this house, I find Poivre Pomelo a mature, slightly understated take on a relatively easy going style. It’s hard to ignore the quality and pleasantness of the composition.