SUPERFUMISTA
PLUM DE VELOURS

2025

PERFUMER
Benjamin Sachs

orris
dried plum
mimosa
tobacco

‘For me, launching a perfume isn’t about adding another reference to a collection—it’s about giving life to an idea with precision and authenticity. Creating this fragrance has been quite a journey. At its heart, the velvety elegance of orris meets the deep, textured richness of dried plum. Precious ingredients, like orris butter, had to be illuminated by a bold and intricate prune accord. The process was long, shaped by patience, countless trials, and infinite doubts. And yet, here it is—finalized, assumed, ready to be shared.’ – Superfumista

Plum de Velours is an interesting ride. I get a big variation between the opening and the drydown of this fragrance, and neither fully aligned with my expectations, so I haven’t adjusted to the fragrance enough to actually consider how much I like it overall and spent more time on dissecting it rationally. That being said, I’m leaning towards it being one among my favorite Superfumista releases (behind my favorite, Infra Rose).

The opening minutes to maybe two hours for Plum de Velours is vibrant and sweet. I can see plum, but it’s more bubblegummy and candied, maybe even some nods to a sparkling cassis drink. I would’ve guessed notes like raspberry, maybe even strawberry, champagne or some designer-type of safe-for-everyone tuberose here along with plum. It has a acidic fruitiness that defines the first hour(s) for me, until that acidity fades. Combined is a type of iris, but it doesn’t register as your usual iris at this stage. The fragrance comparison that comes to mind for me for this opening would definitely be Teo Cabanel Deja Vu (which is a combination of raspberry, citrus, chewing gum and iris among other things).

I enjoyed this opening, but it wasn’t really the plum-iris vibe that I was expecting; it’s a bit more fun and quirky and lighthearted at this stage. What makes Plum de Velours for me is how much it transitions. Particularly, the fizzy texture makes way for a more (cooked) carrot quality of the iris.

When I first tried it (on skin, but admittedly during an evening where I smelled over a 100 fragrances, so everything was getting mixed together), I barely recognized the drydown from the opening. Prompting me to ask my friend who had wore Plum de Velours, whether this drydown that I was smelling, was in fact Plum de Velours. On my skin, this fragrance goes almost gourmand in the drydown, with stronger honeyed facets. I actually don’t know all the notes for this fragrance, but I believe that tobacco is one of them; but it doesn’t have a smokiness or potential daring side. I can picture a subtle, blond tobacco/tobacco blossom with honey sweetness, maybe even some chamomile or hay-like qualities at most. It’s not dark, but it’s also not sparkling, candied or fruity in the same way as the opening was. Slightly fruity, but warmer and cozy, rather than effervescent, fizzy and bubblegummy.

I wouldn’t go as far as saying that the opening and drydown are completely devoid of overlap to my nose, but there’s a strong movement from quirky and youthful to more mature and sophisticated on my skin. And both sides I enjoy equally.