ROJA DOVE HAUTE PARFUMERIE
PIERRE DE VELAY Chou Chou

2024

PERFUMER
Roja Dove

mandarin
bergamot
orange

jasmine
violet

vanilla
milk chocolate
coffee
caramel
candy floss
liquorice
oak wood
dry woods
amber
moss
musk

‘Give in to sparkling citrus notes and the irresistible temptation of sensual vanilla, indulgent milk chocolate, golden caramel, and unexpected liquorice. (…) I created this fragrance with a playful nod to the French pet-name meaning ‘the favourite’ or ‘beloved’. ChouChou is a fragrance that will please those with a love for sensual sweetness.’ – Roja Dove

Let me start with an often unspoken truth. I like to think that people who’ve been reading my reviews over the past couple of years, view me as someone that tries to be objective, regardless of the brand, or if a fragrance was gifted. I’m a critical thinker in general and in many cases, I’m more than happy to share my less positive streams of thought and I’ll even look for flaws in the things I love most. The truth is, that there are also instances, where I find my own expectations let down and I wish I had other thoughts to convey. PR, in this case just a sample, but with that, potential future PR, adds the well-known conflict of interest that gives many an ‘influencer’ a bad reputation. While I never have or will let it sway my opinion, it makes writing a review like the one that follows below, the least fun part of the ‘job’. But, perhaps it’s also the most important part, as opposing viewpoints are desperately needed in that space to keep what little credibility is left to build on.

To be clear: Chou Chou isn’t a terrible fragrance. In fact, I’m sure that a lot of people will enjoy it. It’s a well-loved scent profile and it will likely become a good seller for the brand. Therein lies part of the concern that I want to address. My overall feelings after wearing this fragrance have less to do with how it smells and more to do with what it signifies. I feel that Chou Chou is a product of the state that niche perfumery is currently in or moving into. A sign of the times that I hoped had still escaped a collection like Pierre de Velay.

As much as I enjoy the first 30 minutes or so from Chou Chou, it falls apart for me after, with a clear nod to the structure of a Baccarat Rouge. Contrary to opinions that I’d read beforehand, Chou Chou has little connection to the other Pierre de Velay fragrances to me. I’ve only tested a handful, so maybe my perception is off, but I happened to sample Pierre de Velay No. 1 & No. 47 after Chou Chou and it doesn’t feel like they’re part of the same collection; much less the ones I’d sampled a few years ago that felt more traditional. I’d go as far as saying that Chou Chou arguably comes across as Roja’s most overt attempt to reach a different target audience.

That’s not to say that it’s all bad. The opening, as mentioned, I like, maybe even love. Chocolate, and specifically the listed ‘milk chocolate’, is prominent and wonderful. Not too sweet, quite subtle actually. The same goes for any citrussy or fruity tones. Based on the notes, I was anticipating that Chou Chou could go in the direction of Xerjoff Symphonium, but it didn’t. It felt more understated, less straight-forward of a gourmand, a bit dusty in texture. The citrus is not as vibrant or significant as I was expecting and in general, there was a woody, even forest-like tinge.

Within the first hour the chocolate completely faded on my skin, as chocolate so often does in fragrances. It makes way for grating, dry, airy sugar, caramel and more woodiness. Instantly, I knew that I was going to be severely let down by the direction it was going in…

Understand, that when I reference Baccarat Rouge, I’m not claiming that Chou Chou smells identical to it. I reference it more like a category of fragrances, or better yet, a way to construct a composition. I’m no expert, but it feels like Chou Chou was built upon a massive dose of ethyl maltol or a related ingredient, plus modern diffusive woods and moss, like the Maison Francis Kurkdjian. To me, few things smell as cheap as that ethyl maltol style of sugar, caramel, candy floss, cotton candy or however it may be pitched in note breakdowns. When Kurkdjian did it, it kicked in doors and as much as I dislike it personally, I’ve always felt it deserves the hype (and presumably unheard of profit margins) that came along with it; I think of it as the Rothko of perfumery. But I have less regards for (even more expensive) creations following its lineage today.

Again, it’s not the same scent and I do prefer the Pierre de Velay. Chou Chou by comparison is more gourmand. It’s darker, with a stronger (burnt) caramel scent for the mid of the wear. Yet, it’s perhaps more so sweet woody than edible for the time between the opening and several hours later. But it’s all sugary: burnt sugar caramel, sugared moss, sugared wood. There is a slight fruitiness, that reminded me of ginger in the first hours, but I wasn’t a fan of that aspect; it didn’t bring the levity that I wanted, that a citrus or fruit accord could bring.

About 90 minutes into the wear, I was sitting in the cinema by myself, starting to get annoyed by persistently projecting, bordering on cloying wafts. It made me feel the exact same way as smelling Baccarat Rouge does. Mind you, a lot of people love that style of fragrance, so if your taste aligns, you may feel very differently; this is just my opinion. Regardless of how you feel about it though, you will endure that for many hours. Roja gets critiqued quite frequently for subtle performance (by people who wrongfully relate price & performance), but Chou Chou will definitely not have that issue as it keeps on projecting for hours.

It does get better from there for me. After more hours, there’s less of the harsher airy texture and Chou Chou turns into a fully lactonic vanilla for the final stretch of the wear. These final hours are much more enjoyable for my taste, but they are at least as bare boned. Still very much fitting in with contemporary, ‘simple’ gourmand trends like a Giardini di Toscana Bianco di Latte or Jovoy Fire At Will.

The appeal is evident. Niche perfumes seem to be getting increasingly pulled in a certain direction. Any fragrances listing gourmand notes and/or having a cute presentation or marketing, especially ones that manage to appeal to the female audience, are getting hyped up even before the release. Social media engagement for these types of fragrances completely overshadow most other releases by those brands. Overlapping audiences and platforms with the trending wave of gourmands by a Kayali, Lattafa & whole array for gourmand body mists. Let me be clear that there is nothing wrong with enjoying any of that, however, when it’s presented in a £495 Pierre de Velay bottle, I can’t help to express cynicism.

It follows a formula that the, on average much cheaper, market dictates. It surely won’t hurt Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie now and you can hardly fault brands for getting in on the action, but it’s a trend that seems to be changing the very nature of niche perfumery as we speak and this is not the first or last time that I’ll be vocal about my concerns. Today, it had to be at the cost of the rather innocent Chou Chou.

If you’ve made it through my old-man rant, please do check out the Pierre De Velay No. 1 & Pierre de Velay No. 47 first impressions for more positive thoughts.