GROSSMITH
PHUL-NANA EDP

2009

PERFUMER
Trevor Nicholl

Bergamot
Orange
Neroli

Geranium
Tuberose
Ylang Ylang

Patchouli
benzoin
Cedarwood
Sandalwood
Opoponax
Tonka Bean
Vanilla Bourbon

Phul-Nana was first released in 1891. It was re-released in 2009.

”Hindi for ‘lovely flower’ A fresh, sweet Floral composition with aromatic Fougère overtones on a soft, warm, woody base. Originally created in 1891, this scent is a rare marriage of the herb garden with the flower garden, unusual in a feminine fragrance. It paved the way for the ‘modern’ fragrances that were to follow.’ – Grossmith

Phul-Nana (the 2009 version) is a lovely, slightly daring green fragrance. It was released as a women’s fragrance originally, but at least in this version, I don’t think it leans traditionally feminine.

Its opening is marked by neroli, but to my nose also by a very strong bergamot note. The neroli here reminds me of the more recent Francesca Bianchi Libertine Neroli. Meaning that it’s a warm, eccentric and edgy neroli, more so than the soft soapy one.

Overall, Phul-Nana is green aromatic, but it’s very dense for that style of fragrance. The sandalwood provides a smoothness here that reminds me of the (vintage) Chanel fragrances.

At the same time, it’s quite bitter and sharp on the surface, at times reminding me of an Acqua Di Parma Colognia Essenza. Yet that denser, smoother core made it a much more pleasant experience for me personally.