HIRAM GREEN
PHILTRE
2024
PERFUMER
Hiram Green
FLOWER STEMS
CLOVE
ROSE
CARNATION
JASMINE
RESINS
VANILLA
BLACK PEPPER
‘What does PHILTRE smell like? Let me set the scene: By moonlight, the alchemist prepares his philtre, a potion for love and its reciprocation. Around him are a dozen open wood drawers, the contents of which have no name. No need: he knows the recipe by heart. Into a chalice he deposits them carefully—a sprinkle of a fine, powdered spice, a dash of a viscous inky tincture. And for a finishing touch, a single red carnation. As it simmers, the potion begins to glow, emitting a light that warms the whole room Philtre is a carnation-forward perfume, for those of you who like your florals peppery. At once invigorating and enveloping, both bright and deep, Philtre embodies the expansive, shape-shifting nature of love. – Hiram Green
As someone who has tried all Hiram Green fragrances and liked the vast majority of them (Moon Bloom and Dilettante were ones I could not pull off), Philtre is a release I was very curious about. And I have to say this is another great creation by Hiram; very different from what I was expecting.
I was going into Philtre thinking it would be a lush floral scent, which I would’ve liked. However, this is much more mossy, spicy and vintage-esque than I was expecting, which I also like. Philtre packs quite a punch and I’d even go as far as saying that it is ever so slightly skanky in the opening. I get an animalic purr of beeswax and I keep getting honeyed tinges throughout.
The waxy, plasticy tinge that I often get from carnation is here prominently and it creates a warm, spicy combination that is quite peculiar. It reminds me a bit of of a stewed pear dish at first and later of gingerbread. Clove for sure, but also cinnamon to my nose, as it gets pretty sweet for this type of scent profile (and for a Hiram Green). It mostly takes me back to vintage mossy scents like my Mitsouko Parfum, which is from the 60’s or 70’s and has gotten very sweet and mushy; cozy and comforting.
At one point I felt it wore almost like a dry fiery amber (albeit softer and lighter). The florals are not as lively and pronounced as I was expecting; if anything I get the more stoic, darker edge of rose and jasmine, the way it is often portrayed in works from brands as Areej Le Dore, Bortnikoff, Ensar or Dixit & Zak. Or yesteryear’s jasmine powerhouses such as vintage Jean Patou Joy.
This is pretty hefty for a floral scent, which may be as much of a spicy scent, but uplifting at the same time. It wears fully retro to me, but in a different way than for example Hiram’s Vetiver; which felt like a current take on a vintage style. Philtre feels a bit more like it could’ve actually been bottled decades ago, with less vibrancy and acidity in the top notes. The overall feeling places me in my grandmothers’ home in the 90’s for some reason.
Probably not a fragrance that I would go out of my way for, especially because I have mixed feelings about the scent of carnation, but Hiram is as usual, at the top of his game with Philtre.