PACO RABANNE
PHANTOM PARFUM

2023

PERFUMER
Juliette Karagueuzoglou
Dominique Ropion
Anne Flipo

bergamot
lemon
cardamom
rhubarb

cedarwood
geranium
lavender trio
patchouli

tolu balsam
vanilla bean
vetiver

‘Phantom Parfum, the fragrance of masculinity that frees the seductive aura inside. Capturing the thrill of sultry masculinity Phantom Parfum by Rabanne fuels his raging passions and reveals his seductive aura. Inspired by the complex facets of the man, this intense blend combines electrifying lavender with addictive vanilla and enticing vetiver. Experience the allure of the Phantom nightcall.’ – Paco Rabanne

Phantom EDT is a fragrance that I’ve only tested briefly (a rare wash-off); smelled it a couple of times in stores as well and it left arguably the worst first impression on my in that year… I didn’t want to go back to it, so I never actually reviewed it.

So here we are with, what I hoped to be a better Parfum in 2023. Since I don’t know the EDT that well, I’ll review this one on its own merit. What I’ll say is that the DNA is very similar based on what I remember and the all encompassing ‘plastic-ness’ is there in both variants. Warning, harsh words ahead.

So this had an uphill battle from the get-go for me. A similar scent profile, with this lavender-vanilla mix that I like even less here than in the Le Male DNA.

There’s a slight, unnatural fruity tinge that takes an unlikable DNA to smell downright off-putting at first for my taste. A rare exception aside, rhubarb is one of my least favorite notes on a good day and here, it does not have a good day. Candy like, sharp, sour; completely clashing with the rest of the composition to my nose.

What makes this better as it goes, is a slight hint of earthiness and woodiness. It’s not enough to combat the cloying sweetness. Fair play to the aromatics for fighting the good fight, but as mentioned above, that whole combination never appealed to me.

The citrussy, acidic facet of the fruits fades away rather quickly, which helps in creating a more cohesive experience. Getting into a more warm and sweet overall scent the more it dries. To the point where it becomes almost wearable for me. However, the remnants of the fruitiness and the aromatics still bother me late into the drydown.

Obviously I’m not the target audience and I feel this is fully aimed at a younger crowd, like teenagers. It’s a bit better than I remember the EDT to be, but not by much. A notch below Le Male Elixir, still a bit better than 1 Million Elixir, which I found nauseating.