ELECTIMUSS
Patchouli Of The Underworld
2022
PERFUMER
Kevin Mathys
cistus
black pepper
pink pepper
mandarin
patchouli
leather
carnation
labdanum
styrax
castoreum
‘This is dark, carnal and animalic: a patchouli perfume with a musky sexuality, power, opulence. It captures the raw passion of Pluto, the darkness of the underworld; as well as the opulence of the hidden treasures of his kingdom, such as precious gems, minerals and glittering metals held deep within the earth’s core. Pluto’s plight was to rule the Underworld: the final destination for the dead but also deep earth, the place of riches and opulence abundant with precious jewels, oil, minerals and resources and the earth necessary for a bountiful harvest. Brother to the King of the Gods Jupiter, Pluto was a powerful and magnetic personality. This perfume was created with Persephone’s Patchouli as a pair. Two perfumers explores the central note of Patchouli through two lenses of the same story: that of Pluto and his Queen Persephone.’ – Electimuss
Patchouli Of The Underworld was released alongside the lighter Persephone’s Patchouli. I was quite pleasantly surprised by that one and I must say, while Patchouli Of The Underworld is less to my taste, it’s another rather original patchouli.
This is a tad darker, but not nearly as much as I would’ve expected given the brand’s descriptions. It’s still quite vivid and vibrant, with more of a fresh grassy green than a ‘dark, carnal, animalic patchouli’ in my opinion.
There’s a sweetness, even though very grassy. So picture bright, herbal grass, mixed with a bit of honey and warmer spices and underlying warmth.
I often despise the scent of grass; pure cis-3-hexenol oil is one of the worst ingredients (after skatole) that I’ve smelled. But Patchouli Of The Underworld has made it wearable to me. I still wouldn’t seek out this fragrance myself, but I can see it as an interesting release for the right crowd.