BDK
PAS CE SOIR

2016

PERFUMER
David Benedek

Ginger
Mandarin
Peach
Black pepper

Quince chutney
Jasmine
Orange Blossom

Cashmeran
Amberwood
Patchouli

‘Just like every night, Madam is getting ready in her office. She won’t have time to go back home. She freshens up, touches her make-up: red velour lipstick sometimes Bordeaux depending on her mood. She brushes her hair and takes out her necklace from her purse. Her white shirt slightly open highlights her inviting curves. She adds a bit more black to her eyes. She slams the front door as her heels strides on the sidewalk. Just like every Thursdays, she’s going to the cabaret Place de la Concorde. Madam has high hopes like every night. She likes people; she loves life. She finds a stool at the bar and orders a whiskey with ice before lighting her cigarette. In the darkness, she makes out a silhouette in front of her. She turns to the side. It’s him. It’s always him. Their path often cross but they never speak. She smiles, gets up and goes dancing. Alone. Men line up for her attention, she politely replies. Madam is chic, she responds. Close to 2am while a dandy looking men catches her eyes and invites her to dance. She abides but only for a short period, she leans in says she has to go home. She likes him but the morning is soon approaching. She leaves after whispering these words in his ears… “Not tonight”.’ – BDK

I never paid too much attention to Pas Ce Soir, but with the release of Pas Ce Soir Extrait, I figured I should give the original a full wearing, so I would have a frame of reference to compare the Extrait to.

Edit: In the meantime I have tried Pas Ce Soir Extrait, so check out that review afterwards for more of a comparison. Spoiler, I think the original is quite a lot better than the extrait.

Pas Ce Soir joins the ranks as a BDK that is fully worth the hype for me. This brand has quite a few popular fragrances, of which some I’ve not been the biggest fan (in particular Rouge Smoking). The ones I like most are among their lesser hyped releases (especially Nuit de Sable), with the biggest exception being Gris Charnel (EDP, not the Extrait), which is ever-popular and I find lovely. Pas Ce Soir gets on that level for me.

Albeit a more youthful and feminine leaning release that I would pick as a safe bet for myself, but it just feels nice. It has the styling of a women’s designer fragrance with fruity, citrussy tones and a smooth warm tint. Yet, this one (as opposed to some others from the brand) feels well elevated above many a designer perfume in the same realm.

The quality feels nice, the blending is smooth and I love that Pas Ce Soir is zingy and refreshing enough to cut through the warmth and sweetness. I think the tartness helps tons in my enjoyment of it. I get a general candied, perhaps peachy fruitiness, but erring on the side of citrus.

As the opening fades, the florals reveal themselves more to me. Orange blossom is quite strong. Yet the actual fruitiness lingers longer than I’d expected and it’s surprisingly not too much for me. Especially given that it’s not overly ozonic; there is some density and a syrupy quality to the fruits, which can quickly become too cloying and unpleasant to my nose. Somehow Pas Ce Soir manages to balance it to the point where it’s fun and very sweet, but manageable.

This is a tad more mature and subtle for example than Goldfield & Banks Sunset Hour, but a little bit more generic than Xerjoff Via Cavour 1, which is one of my favorites for this general direction.

The spiciness is there, but subtle. Like having a sprinkle of pepper in a fruit cake/pie. At this stage a reference that comes to mind for me is The Different Company’s Majaina Sin. Mixed with a touch of powdery patchouli. Luckily, the cashmeran doesn’t make this as muddy or cardboard-esque as many other releases, also helping in keeping this somewhat refreshing enough (although I wouldn’t wear it in high heat myself).

Sweet, candied fruity, women’s designer aesthetic… and I like it? I’m not sure if and how often I would wear this myself, but Pas Ce Soir is one that I could and will wholeheartedly recommend to women or people that I know who enjoy their fruity fragrances more than I often do. Stellar release.