MATIERE PREMIERE
PARISIAN MUSC

2019

PERFUMER
Aurelien Guichard

cedarwood

Ambrette

Ambrettolide
Musk
Ambroxan

‘INITIAL IDEA: “A woody musk”
MAIN INGREDIENT: ambrette Peru
CREATIVE APPROACH: Around the Ambrette, reinforce the woody note with Cedar Oil Virgina. The musky facet is amplified by Ambrettolide Supreme. Ambroxan is used to bind wood to musks.’ – Matiere Premiere

In my first impressions, especially when I just smelled it on paper, I likened it to Le Labo’s omnipresent Santal 33. After full wears, I must say it’s as different, as it is alike.

Parisian Musc opens quite sharp, but it’s intriguing. I get a dry, powdery cedar, with a very floral musk. For a while it reminds me of fresh paint and shiny lacquered wood, but there’s an almost lactonic, smoother woody scent lurking beneath, eager to come out. I think the paint vibe has to do with the animalic, boozy or even leathery aspects that ambrette can bring out.

It’s a very airy, ozonic top layer, that’s on the fresh side, herbal, I couldimagine eucalyptus or maybe a heavier cypriol here. It’s slightly earthy. Later in the wear, more of the woodiness comes through and the fragrance loses the sharper edge. I picture smelling your hands, after working in a garden, having just washed them in almond soap or using a body milk in the shower.

So, the Santal 33 comparison didn’t hold up completely; this feels more classical, less spicy, no cucumber, a bit more earthy and a bit darker overall. It’s very interesting and hard to pinpoint, which really seems to be an ode to the ambrette note.

As with all many of the Matiere Premieres, there’s a simplicity, but the clarity and quality of the ingredients shine.