PUREDISTANCE
Papilio
2023
PERFUMER
Nathalie Feisthauer
bergamot
magnolia
neroli
carrot
orris
lily-of-the-valley
hedione
heliotrope
cedarwood
vetiver
amyris
woody notes
ambroxan
opoponax
benzoin
vanilla
peach
leather
ambrette
cashmere
muscenone
‘Papilio sounds captivate with self-confident, carefree lightness. While its melody describes the impressive metamorphosis of the butterfly, Papilio’s filigree fragrance magic – unimpressed by zeitgeist, constraints and trends – seems to dance from flower to flower. From egg to caterpillar to pupation in the homespun cocoon and the breathtaking transformation into a colourful butterfly, Puredistance’s fragrance arrangement picks up on the identities of these different stages of life. The basis for Papilio was Jan Ewoud Vos’ vision of creating a fragrance that represents the butterfly’s self-image: be yourself at every stage of your existence and allow yourself to shape your life according to your wishes. Nathalie Feisthauer makes this image come true in an inimitable creation. Papilio describes the turning away from foreign expectations. With unexpected power, its sounds encourage us to pay attention to our own inner voice and to follow individual life plans. Inimitably clear, Papilio’s fragrance melody calls on us to courageously follow this path. Changing again and again, the life span of the butterfly thus becomes an olfactory symbol of the constant acceptance of the moment, of one’s own abilities and characteristics. To this readiness to accept oneself in every stage of development, Puredistance dedicates its fragrance-formed statement: Embrace your true nature! – Essenza Nobile
‘Thou spark of life that wavest wings of gold’ – Ode To A Butterfly (Higginson)
Congratulations to PureDistance & Nahtalie Feisthauer are in order, because Papilio landed as my #1 release of 2023.
If I could only use one family to describe Papilio, it would be leather, but this is a fragrance that non-leather-lovers (like myself) can fall in love with.
The opening has a slick leather edge, but is otherwise bright with sparkling bergamot and florals. And this continues into a seemingly reverse trajectory from leathery into a more fruity and floral drydown.
As it dries I get a more playful, fruity-floral shampoo quality (soapy neroli, peach) that I’ve found in other recent Feisthauer creations like Zoologist Cow & Der Duft Privilege. However, here it’s warmer, more yellow-golden hued rather than just green. Ambroxan makes for a much sweeter blend. This may be my favorite utilization of ambroxan yet. It also makes for a rather wet texture compared to most leathery fragrances.
What really puts it over the top is a nice dose of buttery iris. Not overly powdery and again, not dry, making Papilio soft, smooth and most of all, creamy. There are a lot of ambery notes, but it doesn’t go in that direction to me scent-wise, more so the balsamic texture.
Papilio feels contemporary with its sweetness, but at the same time with a classy and retro edge. I absolutely love it, but I could also see my Chanel No. 5-wearing grandmother love it. While sophisticated, it has more of a quirkiness about it than most PureDistance fragrances. And despite feeling mostly like a leather fragrance to me, Papilio is versatile and easy-going with a lot of the brightness lasting throughout the entire wear. I think it’s the perfect balance.
