AMOUAGE
OVERTURE MAN

2019

PERFUMER
Karine Vinchon Spehner

ginger
grapefruit
Cognac
Cumin
Cardamom
Nutmeg
Saffron

Myrrh
Labdanum
Cinnamon
Benzoin
Mastic
Patchouli
Geranium

clary sage
Animal Notes
Smoke
Sandalwood
Incense
Leather

Overture Man is the most daring fragrance from Amouage in a while. There’s been some talk in the fragrance community about Amouage becoming too modern and mass-appealing since Renaud Salmon took over as creative director. If I’m correct, Overture Man was the last release under the guidance of Christopher Chong , which drives the point home. Overture Man should be at the top of the to try list for people who feel a lack of ‘niche’ in the more modern Amouages.

Originally released exclusively to Harrods, you can tell Amouage made this to be a special, opulent experience. Straight from the opening I get a connection between Overture Man and Boundless (also done by Karine Vinchon Spehner); the combination of ginger, cumin and citrus is prominent. However, whereas in Boundless, that cumin is about the extent of the daring aspect and its overall very easy to pull off, Overture adds booze, more spices, animalics and smoke.

I’m notoriously bad at detecting boozy notes and while everyone seems to perceive Overture as a strong boozy cognac scent, for me it’s only a small part of it. It does give the imagery of a dark red syrupy booze, but spiced, smokey and woody. The opening is dominated by the spices to my nose with the cumin and nutmeg having a strong contrast with the brighter grapefruit and ginger (which for me are the highlight of the opening, giving it some levity).

Another element that is powerful in this composition for me is a barbershop-like vibe. It’s masculine leaning, classy, deep in the same way Richwood is. All of that is underlined with a persistent warm animalic breeze and a lot of smokiness.

All the above sounds quite daring and it is, but at the same time it’s very smooth. At times it can remind one of Interlude Man, but I much prefer Overture Man. The brightness makes the opening more interesting (and it doesn’t have the divisive oregano).

Not for the faint of heart and I won’t be looking to add it to my collection, but it was well worth trying and a nice addition to the Amouage line-up. I think Overture Woman suits my taste a little more.