MAISON CRIVELLI
OUD STALLION
2023
PERFUMER
Jordi Fernandez
cardamom absolute
nutmeg
saffron
rose
osmanthus
jasmine absolute
cedarwood
leather
patchouli
tonka bean absolute
‘The experience: smelling oud wood while attending a horse race. The surprising contrast: a smoky leather contrasting with the depth of oud wood.’ – Maison Crivelli
Oud Maracuja was a massive hit and I’d say, rightfully so. A really good mix of fruity and harsh that I quite enjoyed, until the fruitiness fades away. My expectations for Oud Stallion were less positive and I could tell (also directly after spraying it) that this wasn’t going to be a favorite for me.
This scent profile isn’t up my alley at all. Not a lot of brightness or freshness here, straight away Oud Stallion takes you to a woodiness, with small hints of leather. Moreover, I find it to be muddy and sweet. The rose, osmanthus, jasmine floral heart listed in the notes escapes me pretty much completely.
There is a… buttery? quality here that I appreciate it. I’m reminded of Francesca Bianchi’s use of orris and suede that is the saving grace of this fragrance for me, but it’s not enough to turn it into something that I’d gladly wear again.
Most of the wear feels slightly earthy, nutty, powdery and increasingly sweet (in an earthy, woody way). It reminds me of more generic than expected labdanum-esque woody rampage with a hint of barnyard that I grew tired of before the first hour was over. In the week prior I reviewed Fugazzi Passionfroudh, which mimics Oud Maracuja a bit and I commented on a similar, tiresome base (that also reminds me of Mancera Jasmin Exclusif for example).
Almost the entire wear feels linear and familiar, with the Oud Stallion take being slightly suede-leather-ish on top (which doesn’t make it better for my personal taste). It’s the worst part of the Oud Maracuja base for me, now available from the very first minute until the end of the wear… (does it ever end?). If this happens to be a scent that you enjoy, you will get lots of it, but that means that wearing it becomes a chore if you don’t fall in love with it, as was clearly the case for me.