FRAGRANCE DU BOIS
OUD NOIR INTENSE
2013
PERFUMER
Francois Merle-Baudoin
Cardamom
Bergamot
Rose
Jasmine
Oud
Musk
Patchouli
Sandalwood
Saffron
Amber
Vanilla
‘The dark knight of the Shades, which exudes danger and intrigue, is the only accessory required after dark. Oud Noir Intense channels the highly-charged adrenaline of life in the fast lane. A perfect marriage of bergamot and cardamom blends smoothly into floral, woody notes of rose, jasmine, amber, sandalwood, vanilla and musk, stimulating the senses with its complexity, while the Oud base adds to its strength and depth as a woody oud perfume.’ – Fragrance du Bois
Can this dethrone Tom Ford Oud Wood? Let me temper expectations; at the time I wrote this review, I was not the biggest Oud Wood fan (anno 2024, I sort of fell in love with it again).
I found two interesting points to note in my sampling of Oud Noir Intense, in the same period as Oud Wood EDP; one in favor of Oud Noir Intense and one in favor of Oud Wood. For those that don’t know the scent profile; I consider it to be a spicy, musky, floral scent, with a dark wooden base. The rose really comes through and it’s an elegant mature style.
The opening is completely different. Oud Noir Intense has the most daring oud out of the Fragrance du Bois that I’ve tried, for a couple of minutes. It’s a bit skanky and barnyardy for about half an hour, although it’s definitely wearable for most people and the skankiness is mainly noticeable when smelled up close in the initial minutes.
There’s a hint of sourness as well, stronger than in Oud Wood and even stronger than in Versace Oud Noir, which causes the opening to be less pleasant in my opinion. Where Oud Noir Intense shines is in the drydown.
The stronger presence of the oud gives the fragrance more body; it’s richer and deeper. However, the blend is so well done, that it’s simultaneously smoother and in a way, easier to wear at this stage. The skankiness of oud is completely gone in the drydown and it almost becomes soapy.
The oud seems to help with longevity though, which I found to be excellent, but the projection is average. I don’t think you need to spend the premium for the performance here, you spend it for the smoothness and the quality of the ingredients. I think that it makes for a worthy alternative to Tom Ford’s Oud Wood, if the scent profile is what you’re looking for, although for my money, I may find Thameen Carved Oud the best option.