AMOUAGE
OPUS I
2010
PERFUMER
Daniel Maurel
Cardamom
Bitter Orange
Plum
Ylang-Ylang
Tuberose
Jasmine
Rose
lily-of-the-valley
cedarwood
Incense
Papyrus
Tonka Bean
Sandalwood
Guaiac Wood
Vetiver
Opus I reminds me of Opus IX, even though it’s much much more subtle and there aren’t many overlapping ingredients. There’s a slight hint of an animalic note that’s not listed in the opening of Opus I, that’s reminiscent of the civet-like scent in Opus IX.
More importantly, there’s ylang ylang, jasmine and tuberose, so you get a strong tropical scent, but it’s not a sun tan lotion scent to me, the florals are quite lifelike. It’s supported by a light fruitiness, mainly (an almost bitter) citrus. Cardamom is said to be one of the main notes, but after the opening, it fades away on my skin.
The base is a lot warmer and heavier. it grows woody in the drydown. The opening can be harsh, but as it dries down it warms up and becomes easier to wear. You get that tropical floral touch, without the animalic hint. Incense, a mix of woods and papyrus, creating a pencil shavings backdrop.
I’d say this is a complex fragrance, with a lot of nuances that can’t be described on paper. You have to be ready for the pungent quality in the opening and you have to enjoy a rich, opulent, white floral with a tropical touch, but even with that in mind, this could be a polarizing scent. As far as references goes, I’d place this in the same category as Fragrance du Bois Oud Jaune Intense.