ROJA PARFUMS
OLIGARCH PARFUM
2022
PERFUMER
Roja Dove
Bergamot
Lavender
Lime
Lemon
Thyme
Orange Blossom
Jasmine
Coconut
lily-of-the-valley
Champaca
Blackcurrant
Apple
Grass
MatE
Galbanum
Pink Pepper
Aniseed
Patchouli
Oakmoss
Cedarwood
juniper
Vanilla
Tonka Bean
Amber
Iris
Birch
Leather
Ambergris
Musk
Oligarch has been re-released and rebranded as Isola Blu (2023).
I always wanted to try the now discontinued EDP, but was never able to, so I can’t make a comparison. What I can do, is tell you all about this new Oligarch Parfum.
Oligarch starts off superbright and zesty. There’s a sharp lemon and lime; leaning towards a neon-green citrus feeling. It has apple, blackcurrant… loads of fruitiness. Ginger isn’t listed, but it reminds me of that as well, with a tart edge.
Oligarch is often (and rightfully) compared to Hermes Terre D’Hermes, but it’s way brighter and complex with it’s fruitiness; without the sweetness that the orange in the Hermes gives off. And it’s not as ‘burned’ or harsh overall, but very crisp, cologne-style scent instead. The later released Terre D’Hermes Eau Givrée is closer and sits in between them in my opinion.
After one of the most effervescent openings, the floral nuances begin to push through. Orange blossom and jasmine are there to add a bit of class, but the citrusses are still the star of the show.
You get this mossy, peppery and woody base, however Roja keeps that bright as well. Oligarch feels chrystal clear, especially for a parfum concentration. It will be perfectly suitable in high heat.
The last thing I want to point out is the maté. While this is very green, and green can easily be in my allergy-zone; it’s mostly citrus green, with a hint of green tea and jasmine. Roja describes a cut grass scent, but it remains at a level of a ‘fresh perfume’ and it doesn’t move into actual grassy or mossy for me. I would describe this as a citrus fragrance, not a green fragrance, despite being fully green (don’t try to make it make sense).
Performance is good, but for a citrus freshie, so don’t expect all day performance. Oligarch is what I hoped it would be and more and it will get a lot of wear time in my collection.
