PREMIERE PEAU
Nuit Elastique
2025
PERFUMER
Ugo Charron
salty black olive
elastic latex accord
carnation
animalic jasmine
‘An elastic darkness of indole, latex, and black olive. Nuit Élastique pulses without linearity—Kalamata flesh collides with oily jasmine stripped of sunlight. Carnation, raw and erotic, emerges through a skin-like blur. It’s not a story—it’s a loop. Opaque, tactile, and unnervingly alive.’ – Premiere Peau
‘With Nuit Élastique, I sought a vibration, a frequency that never settles, leaving an echo suspended in the air. The floral becomes sound, the olive expresses itself as flavor, the latex vibrates like a material.’ – Ugo Charron
A quick general introduction, before diving into this specific fragrance. Premiere Peau launched in 2025 and simply based on presentation, aesthetics, but also to some extent, the notes, it immediately caught my attention as one of the most interesting new brands. After wearing them all once, I can say that most of them feel modern. Not as eccentric as I expected; none of them are ‘hard to pull off’ in my opinion; but some of them are on the abstract side, which I appreciate. There’s more sweetness among them than I anticipated. My stand outs on first impression are Doppel Dancers & Rose Monotone.
Straight from the opening, this one smells the least modern of the seven releases to me. Whereas I initially figured it was going into an almost fougere direction, with some greens and some tonka-like sweetness, it quickly reveals itself to be a proper jasmine bomb.
Quite indolic jasmine, and perhaps some tuberose as well. More on the daring side as it opens, smelling a bit like some vintage, skanky florals.
However, it loses that daring edge pretty soon after and becomes a rather beautiful, well-constructed (white) floral jasmine.
I get nothing resembling ‘salty olives’ on first impression and I’d say along with the gourmandish Insuline Safrine, Nuit Elastique feels less abstract than some of the others from the brand.
I’d have to give them another wear, but I think Nuit Elastique would end up being my 3rd favorite, behind Doppel Dancers & Rose Monotome.