LOUMARI
NUAGE NOIR
2021
PERFUMER
Anne-Sophie Behaghel
Bergamot
Cocoa
Cinnamon
Tonka Bean
cedarwood
Leather
Suede
Papyrus
‘It embodies lightness and evokes delicacy. Almost intangible, uncatchable, its evolution sways in the wind. Yet, an arid land longs for its return to find back its blazing appearance. Its passage is outstanding, a true combination of sparkles and roar. This is Nuage Noir. It is a subtle balance, sensitive and edgy, made of clashing raw materials always ready to spring from the unexpected. Its body is way more dense than it looks. Get ready for a leathery and ambery perfume, for cinnamon and cocoa notes and for suede leather. A clever blend of warm tones and dark colours. The tonka bean, with its black tint, takes us by surprise with its almondy notes.’ – Loumari
Nuage Noir translate to black cloud, but as shown on the bottle, there’s a silver (gold) lining to behold. It is a dark fragrance to be sure, with a heavy woody element and a leathery overtone. So it’s not for the faint of heart, but at the same time I think this will appeal to gourmand lovers, with it’s tonka, chocolate and cinnamon additions. The cinnamon stands out and an overall dense, syrupy sweetness envelops the whole wear.
The opening is almost boozy to me, with the syrupy quality. It reminds me of a wooden table drenched with amaretto-esque coffee liqueur in the same way you’ll find in Van Cleef & Arpels Bois Doré or Memoirs Of A Perfume Collector Lost In The Desert. To give credit where its due; the Loumari feels simultaneously heavier and smoother than both, so that’s impressive.
It doesn’t take long for the leather to become the main player, but it’s so well balanced. It could’ve easily taken over the composition, but instead you keep the sweetness and woodiness (even more so than in Matiere Premiere Falcon Leather for example). The real star and distinguishing element here being the tonka bean, which adds a smooth, almost almond-milk like layer on top of the leather. In a way there’s a brightness, like sunshine peeking through the clouds that really elevates the fragrance.
