ATELIER DES ORS
NOIR BY NIGHT

2022

PERFUMER
Marie Salamagne

Incense
Coriander

Caviar
Dreamwood
Mate

Sandalwood
Guaiac Wood
cashmeran

Contrary to what the notes/description (including caviar) might suggest, there’s very little aquatic or salty touches in Noir By Night to my nose.

From the opening, this is a slightly masculine leaning spicy incense. Very wood and somewhat tame. All the notes feel like they’re blended into one overarching accord, with few things standing out.

That means that the spiciness isn’t sharp, and the incense is getting overtaken by a general woodiness. There’s an almost milky (rather than aquatic in my opinion) woodiness; not unlike in some more smooth and milky takes on Le Labo Santal 33. It reminds me for example of Matiere Premiere Parisian Musc. Slightly green, mostly woody.

As it dries down it becomes sweeter. Yet I mostly get green spiciness, lactonic woods and an overall soft and well-rounded scent. If I close my eyes I can picture some salty watery marine-like qualities, but not much and I wonder if that’s the expectations playing mind games or not.

Not at all what I expected, but a nice scent overall, despite definitely not being one of my favorites from Atelier Des Ors.