caron
Nocturnes de Caron Cologne Fraiche

1981

PERFUMER
Gerard Lefort

aldehydes
green notes
mandarin
bergamot
orange

orris
jasmine
ylang-ylang
cyclamen
lily-of-the-valley
rose
tuberose

musk
amber
benzoin
vanilla
vetiver
sandalwood

I assume this Cologne Fraiche is a spin on the 1981 formulation of Nocturnes, although no exact year or other information is known. The notes above are copied from the other 1981 concentrations and may not be correct for the Cologne Fraiche. I’ve only seen this version as 10ml miniatures at the time of writing.

I have a vintage miniature of this fragrance as was surprised to find out that there is no information on it available online. Because it does occasionally show up for sale, and it’s magnificent.

This one opens really interesting. Strong aldehydes, but flanked by a sweeter fruitiness and a musk.

I wore this side by side with Caroline Herrera Flore EDP, which is a cleaner, sharper and greener white musk/white floral scent. It really set apart Nocturnes Cologne Fraiche in the way it’s sweeter and warmer. As Flore, it has a laundry detergent quality, but here, more like opening a still warm dryer. It’s powdery, soft, slightly earthy perhaps, with an interesting, tropical-leaning sweetness.

This reminds me quite a bit of Zwitsal baby products (for the Dutch readers). As it dries more, a soft woody, sandalwoody base comes through. It’s like silky smooth baby powdered sandalwood. Almost leaning towards gourmandish territory if it wasn’t for the strong baby powder vibe.

This is more linear, but therefore smoother than the aldehydic opening of the vintage Guerlain Samsara (that I still neglected to post the review for as I write this).

To be fair, I have a feeling top notes for my bottle have mostly vanised. But regardless, this version is quite magical and cozy. I was expecting something sharper, stronger on the white florals, but this is one of those vintages that sandalwood lovers will appreciate. I was pleasantly surprised. Wearing this on a lazy early morning at home was the perfect setting for it. One of my more intriguing discoveries in a while.