NISHANE
NEFS
2019
PERFUMER
Chris Maurice
Honey
Saffron
Fig
Violet
Sage
Rose
Osmanthus
Jasmine
Nutmeg
Geranium
Oud
Whiskey
Vanilla
Gurjum balsam
Leather
Amber
Cinnamon
Cedarwood
‘Is a luxurious interpretation of the oriental notes. Like Istanbul itself, the masterful creations of Nishane straddle the line between Europe and Asia, synthesizing the palettes and traditions of both in the service of dynamic, modern perfumery. And so it’s unsurprising that Nefs, conceptualized as the line’s flagship oriental scent, strives for a new, modern oriental- an East-meets-West portrait of refined luxury to sway even those who dislike oriental fragrances. Like a breeze blowing from the east across the Bosphorus, Nefs is an exquisite oriental that bridges the gap between civilizations. A scent to revive the fantasies told by the stories of One Thousand and One Nights of the Orient.’ – Nishane
Nefs is a complex, but very wearable fragrance. I get a saffron overdose and it smells a bit like a plasticy leather with fig initially. Within minutes however, the sweetness from the honey comes through and it makes all the difference.
The leather remains (I would mostly call this a sweet leather fragrance), but it has a floral and fruity tinge (osmanthus, fig, rose, violet). Moreover, there’s a booziness as well, which combined with the sweetness creates this slightly burned, syrupy quality.
Meanwhile the woods from the base come through more and more and you really get a blend of leather, booze, sweetness, fruity, floral, spicy all coming at you. There is a lot going on at once with Nefs, but it manages to juggle all facets.
It’s quite unique. There’s 2 connections I make that might help you envision the scent. I think YouTuber TroyD247Mall pointed out the similarity to Hind Al Oud Ahojas. Ahojas felt more dry, earthy and less rich in my sampling, but he’s correct; it’s definitely comparable. Nefs also reminds me a bit of Nasomatto’s Baraonda and Unique’e Luxury’s Kutay. Nefs replaces the sugary/ambroxan sweetness for a softer honey and the dried fruitiness for a brighter, more contrasting one. Aside from that Nefs is heavier on the saffron/leather, but it’s in the same realm.
Frankly, it’s a masterpiece. Complex, true niche, but wearable is a golden combination. Along with the popular Ani, Nefs is the very best that Nishane has to offer (although I have since swapped my bottle, due to personal grievances with the brand).