PERNOIRE
NAKI
2023
PERFUMER
Andreas Wilhelm
Aldehydes
peach
almond blossom
passionfruit
fig leaf
sandalwood
white flowers
osmanthus
white musk
vanilla
sea breeze
Naki was created in collaboration with figure skater Kimmy Repond.
‘The origin of every soul is its pure and untouched essence. As we age, external forces can diminish the purity of our souls. However, when we look back to our beginnings, we often recognize our light-heartedness and good faith. These traits are often forgotten in old age and are replaced by skepticism and mistrust due to various experiences. But this purity and impartiality that was present in each of us is key to a healthy society. It is the essence of pure and eternal youth. “Naki” means “pure” in Arabic and is a metaphor for the pure and eternal soul. It is the transformation to the pure and authentic person that we may have forgotten how to be.’ – Pernoire
After having tried the first releases by Pernoire, the quality was evident and the house has a rather niche/indie styling to all of their fragrances. With Amoral in 2022, some sweetness was introduced, that I think will appeal to a broader audience. Naki however, feels like the first actual mass-appealing fragrance from Pernoire and it’s probably also my favorite so far.
The opening has a beautiful lifelike fruitiness. The peach (and what I perceived to be mango) hit me first, before clearly settling down as a fig fragrance.
It’s fruity for a fig scent, but also fully on the green side. It doesn’t go in as milky of a direction that figs often go, instead Naki reminds me of smelling actual (unripe?) figs and peaches with a mature and subtle vibe. I think if you like the type of fig from Amouroud Silver Birch, you might enjoy Naki as a more sophisticated take.
The first hours are 100% unisex. Style wise it reminds me of a more playful, fruitier Houbigant Figuier Noir, but it’s not as playful as for example Essential Parfums Fig Infusion. The later drydown is more of a spicy green to my nose; almost retro and I can see men gravitating towards this element more.