GUERLAIN
NAHEMA PARFUM

1979

PERFUMER
Jean-Paul Guerlain

aldehydes
green notes
peach
rose
bergamot

bulgarian rose
hyacinth
lilac
ylang-ylang
jasmine
lily-of-the-valley

passionfruit
vetiver
peru balsam
sandalwood
vanilla

‘Nahema is an enigmatic elixir whose muse is a rose with spellbinding charm. Its main olfactory note gradually transforms into a haunting presence. It took its creator four years to develop this rich and somptuous women’s fragrance. First comes a rose scent selected from the best families in the rose species. Then at Nahéma’s heart lies the fresh, green scent of hyacinth accord followed by fruit, including peach accord and passionfruit, which have been a symbol for temptation since the tale of Adam and Eve was first told. At the base of the composition sits sandalwood and patchouli. Inspired by an intoxicatingly charming ambery rose fragrance, Nahéma is a truly enigmatic elixir.’ – Guerlain

This review is for a miniature that’s quite old (probably not much younger than the initial 1979 composition). I haven’t smelled a modern Nahema in a while, but I can imagine that the one reviewed here is a bit darker and denser.

Nahema is quite the ride. Often named as a ‘heavy rose’ that was a head of its time. Coincidentally, I find its texture rather modern compared to many other fragrances from this era and before.

From the opening I instantly get the rose, which is thick, oily and slick. It adds a real kick straight away. I’d describe it as a rose scent that wears like a tuberose, at least for those first moments.

A few minutes later, the fruitiness makes itself known and for quite a while its a prominent feature on my skin. A warm, plum-like fruitiness akin to Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois is what I get initially.

At this stage, I was wondering why I didn’t appreciate Nahema as much when I tried it a year prior. Well, it turns out that I do like the first 1-2 hours, but the scent takes a turn into a much greener, almost aromatic drydown. In a unexpected way, I feel like I get not only more green, but also more of a lemon soapiness later in the wear that I’m not liking nearly as much. I’m not that familiar with hyacinth, but maybe that’s what is coming through more.

It turns into a slick, shampoo-esque, green scent and I kept longing for the darker, sweeter, rose opening to make its return.