LE LABO
MYRRHE 55
2023
myrrhe
jasmine
patchouli
oud
ambergris
musk
City Exclusive to Shanghai, where Le Labo opened a store in 2023.
‘Myrrh, a resin once considered to be so sacred that it was more valuable than gold, is known in Chinese traditional medicine as a “blood mover.” It should come as no surprise, then, that MYRRHE 55, Shanghai’s City Exclusive, is a creation that will get your heartbeat thumping. Myrrh, which smells of incense with a strong liquorice twist, is at the “heart” of this creation. Its partners-in-crime are jasmine and patchouli, all well-anchored on a bed of oud, ambergris, and of course, musk (don’t worry, all vegan notes). MYRRHE 55 is understated elegance, emanating contemporary yet creative classicism that makes it hard to ignore and forget. It’s a Chypre, ladies and gents. Dark and electric, old and new. Just like Shanghai.’ – Le Labo
Le Labo has been a hit or miss brand for me, but Myrrhe 55 had my attention as soon as it was rumored to come out. I like my resins and myrrh is having a moment in 2023… I might be here for it. In the case of Myrrhe 55, I think it’s intriguing, but very different from what I expected. Ultimately not satisfying enough.
You instantly get the soft, resinous, sweet myrrh. And you also instantly realize this is quite an easy going, mass appealing direction that Le Labo went with. I do not get the ‘dark’ that Le Labo speaks of in the description at all here.
Soft, almost candied, gummy-like sweetness. I smell fruits, like plum and cherry, but in a candy way. The color I picture is pink/purple and it leans a tad feminine. It’s really well done and pretty, but I definitely hoped for a bit more of the smoky, ambery vibe myself. I think the notes paint a different picture than what I’m smelling. I can see the liquorice side of myrrhe that the brand describes, but I don’t get much patchouli, oud, ambergris…most of the heavier notes.
Myrrh to me has always had a connection to melancholy. Cold smokiness, mild sweetness. Here, that’s not the essence of the fragrance at all. This is comfort in a bottle without rough edges, and the sweetness (even if in a liquorice way) isn’t really pulled back much.
As it dries, it warms up. It also has an earthiness to it a tiny bit, but I still don’t really get patchouli. To my it feels a bit powdery on the surface, but it has this almost syrupy core in the first hours. When that core disappears, it becomes one big soft cloud-like accord with a soft liquorice-candy scent.
A beautiful release and somewhat unique, but not really up my alley at the same time. I have a feeling women will gravitate towards Myrrhe 55 more.