ERIS PARFUMS
MXXX.

2019

PERFUMER
Antoine Lie

Blue Ginger
Mace
Saffron
frankincense
Pink Pepper

Cacao
cedarwood
Sandalwood

Vetiver
patchouli
Benzoin
Castoreum (synthetic)
Ambergris (7%)
Hyraceum
Green Vanilla

‘Spicy, smoky, animalic and woody, Mxxx. has a massive 7% overdose of natural specially tinctured, and ethically sourced Ambergris. Mxxx. also features natural, specially tinctured, ethically sourced Pierre d’Afrique (Africa Stone or Hyraceum) in a subliminally pleasing dose. Due to its rarity and cost, natural Ambergris — the aged and oxidized exudate from a sperm whale — is found largely in synthetic form in most perfumes listing it as an ingredient. At once sweet, earthy, marine, and animalic, natural Ambergris imparts a subtle but unmistakable glow to any elixir it joins, adding an ineffable warmth, coziness, roundness, and sensuality that you have to smell — and feel — to understand. Mxxx. also features a sumptuous Cacao from Trinidad and Tobago used for the first time ever in a fragrance. Selected by both perfumer Antoine Lie and a French artisanal chocolatier for its dark, spicy character, the Cacao was processed by ERIS partner, independent haute perfumery lab L’Atelier Français des Matières (“AFDM,” The French Atelier of Materials) with its cocoa butter intact. This choice, along with the use of a green, organic solvent and AFDM’s ultrasound technology extraction at a low temperature, results in a Cacao with its full spectrum of aromatic molecules.’- Eris

‘Eris Parfums’ Mxxx. pushes dark sensuality to a new limit. It includes specially sourced, tinctured, and aged Ambergris in a huge concentration; the rarely used animalic ingredient Pierre d’Afrique; and the richest and most refined Trinidad Cacao I’ve ever smelled, used for the first time in Mxxx. Surrender to its beauty!’ – Antoine Lie (Perfumer)

While Mxxx. feels quite similar to Mx., in texture and overall combination of notes, I think the difference in scent is more than enough to make for a very different experience. Mxxx. delivers on my expectations and hopes a lot more than Mx. did and it’s one of my favorites from this excellent brand.

As with Mx., Mxxx. has this interesting combination of slightly nutty, not-too-sweet-chocolate, greener hues and a lot of woodiness. However, Mxxx. feels warmer, much less green and less bright. Here, I do get the ‘animalic purr’ that I didn’t get at all in Mx. The ambergris adds a mineralic touch, but it’s not overly watery, nor is it acidic. I think both version have more of a lactonic-woody feeling.

Because of the warmer tone, the woodiness feels much more alive and natural to my nose here, versus the more clinical pencil-shavings cedarwood in Mx. It also remains sweeter after the opening for a long time, retaining more of that chocolate and earthy vibe. (More) Animalic and more defined chocolate are two things that I think make Mxxx. an elevated scent profile and also one that suits my personal taste better.

It’s darker; adding a slight smokiness and heavier woods; more in the direction of the chocolate-tobacco-resins of Antoine Lie’s other creation, Les Indemodables Vanille Havane mixed with their Musc de Sables. Mxxx. definitely has more breathing room and transparency than Vanille Havane however and in a way, I find it easier to wear, despite its animalic edge.

Mxxx. elevates all the facets that I like or wanted from Mx. and could easily be a wishlist item for me, although I may find Ma Bete even nicer in the same broad realm by Eris.