NEW NOTES
MUSK COMPLEXITY
2021
PERFUMER
Cristian Calabro
Lemon
Ginger
Red Fruits
Bergamot
Petitgrain
rum
Cardamom
Chocolate Flower
Jasmine
Labdanum
Demerara Sugar
Cinnamon
Patchouli
Guaiac Wood
Sandalwood
Musk
Muscenone
Exaltone
Fixolide
Civettone
I (blindly) chose Musk Complexity as the one from the house to receive for a review, in part influenced no doubt by this amazing looking bottle. Depending on how the light shines on it, the front has a pearlescent effect. But, what does it smell like?
Musk Complexity opens very bright. There’s a tart citrus accord (lemon, ginger and petitgrain). Underneath it you get a spiciness straight away; cardamom and cinnamon are listed and those I both get, especially the cinnamon. It creates a contrasting (some might say conflicting) duality between fresh and warmer spices that took me a full wearing to get used to. On subsequent wearings I really started to appreciate the cinnamon sweetness.
I have a feeling I could love this scent profile, if it wasn’t for a dry, animalic tinge throughout that I can’t seem to get comfortable with. New Notes lists several synthetics to create the namesake musk (civettone, exaltone, muscenone). I’m not sure what exactly causes my issues with Musk Complexity, but there’s a bonedry, warm pungent element in the background for the entire wear that I was not a fan of (it reminds me slightly of the animalics in Pernoire’s 2021 version of Masar). It’s almost palpable in the mouth and I think how the wearer perceives this element will make or break Musk Complexity for them.
When smelled up close, I get more of the sweeter notes in Musk Complexity and it’s pleasant, especially when the citrusses lose their edge after some minutes. It remains on the bright side and I think it’s versatile enough to wear year round.
I’d say, give this one a try, because what triggered me might not be prevalent for others and otherwise it’s a rather interesting bright, citrussy and at the same time spicy and sweeter scent.