GUERLAIN
MITSOUKO PDT

1984

Bergamot
Rose
Jasmine
citrus notes

Peach
Ylang-Ylang
Lilac
Rose
Jasmine

Oakmoss
Spicy notes
Vetiver
Cinnamon
Amber

I tried a 2022 batch of Mitsouko EDT and it didn’t have the wow-factor that I remember Mitsouko had when I smelled it before. I looked forward to trying older and different versions again, so I sought one out and acquired a 1987 (I believe) bottle of the Parfum de Toilette.

The Parfum de Toilette was released in 1984 and is actually a stronger concentration than the Eau de Parfum that followed and replaced it. I sprayed it on and I didn’t like the opening. I don’t think it smells bad (or the juice went bad), but it doesn’t have the levity and ‘fun’ element of the peach that current EDT’s have. It’s instantly a more moody, heavy, damp fragrance with a more mossy vibe. The oakmoss here has the spiciness that they’ve tried to recreate with the newer formulations. It’s more leathery as well, more masculine leaning in my opinion.

At this stage, I figured it would be too green and mossy for my taste. But right when I wanted to give up on it (as far as it being a love), it started to shift into something beautiful. In the drydown, it’s mainly the spiciness that’s left on my skin, with a suede-like nuance. There’s a modest sweetness; like ylang ylang sweetness. It’s dense and it lasts, but it’s intimate. Intimate, with a rough leathery edge. A wonderful drydown.

Ideally I’d like a combination of this style and the more modern ones. However, I found my perfect Mitsouko in a vintage Parfum.