GUERLAIN
MITSOUKO PARFUM

1919

PERFUMER
Jacques Guerlain

Bergamot
Jasmine
Rose
citrus notes

Peach
Jasmine
Rose
Lilac
Ylang-Ylang

Oakmoss
Spicy notes
Cinnamon
Vetiver
Amber

I’ve tried several versions of Mitsouko. The current EDT/EDP versions haven’t impressed me, as they tend to be a lot more transparent in texture and more peachy. I had a 1987 bottle of the Parfum de Toilette, which was a lot better, but I think the top notes had faded on that one and it smelled a bit damp. I had a miniature from the Parfum that dates back to the late 70’s to early 80’s. It seems to be in mint condition and it’s without question the most superior version of Mitsouko that I got my hands on, so I went and sought out a full-bottle of the vintage Parfum. I bought a vintage (1967-1976) bottle since (pictured below), which may be my favorite bottle in my collection.

Vintage Mitsouko Parfum perfectly combines the greener, more mossy vibe with the brighter top notes. I don’t get too much peach here, but it’s there and the tropical, creamy tinge of the ylang ylang stands out. It’s not as green as the PdT that I had, but instead slightly warmer and animalic. In the opening it’s a tad more spicy. Almost reminding me of the spices in Chanel Egoiste for a moment, before growing more earthy and ever so slightly smoky. The full bottle is the sweetest I’ve smelled Mitsouko; the patchouli has an almost chocolate tinge and the ylang-ylang adds a tropical sweet creaminess.

What absolutely makes this version is its texture. It’s a thick, dense, oily juice that pushes in a very subtle, but steady way. Performance could be better, but frankly, its worth the compromise.