GUERLAIN
MITSOUKO EDT

1919

PERFUMER
Jacques Guerlain

Bergamot
Rose
Jasmine
citrus notes

Peach
Ylang-Ylang
Lilac
Rose
Jasmine

Oakmoss
Spicy notes
Vetiver
Cinnamon
Amber

Speaking about Mitsouko EDT based on a current sample is probably not doing this classic any justice. I did wear a vintage Mitsouko Parfums de Toilette for a longer time and currently I’m the happy owner of a vintage Mitsouko Parfum. I had tried an older EDT as well, which I based my expectations on.

This newer EDT is much more vetiver heavy than I remembered. The opening is dominated by a clean, soapy vetiver and a hint of an acidic sharpness. Indols are there. As with Habit Rouge, the acidity of the citrus tends to throw me off in the first minutes.

Mitsouko is floral heavy as well and a fruitiness (peach) comes through. My experience with Mitsouko is that the amount of peachiness and the overall heaviness differs a lot depending on what bottle you have.

It dries to a nice, light vetiver with a floral tinge and light tingling spices. This EDT (presumably a 2022 batch) doesn’t have the magic that I know Mitsouko can have; it feels safer and more generic. Don’t misread me, it’s beautiful and still a good buy, but it does smell like it’s missing something.