DIOR
MISS DIOR EDT

1947

PERFUMER
Serge Heftler Louiche
Jean Carles
Paul Vacher

Aldehydes
Galbanum
Clary Sage
Gardenia
Bergamot

Narcissus
Iris
Carnation
orris
Lily-of-the-Valley
Jasmine
Rose
Neroli

Oakmoss
Leather
Vetiver
Patchouli
Labdanum
Sandalwood
Amber

Miss Dior EDT has seen several known reformulations. It was first released in 1947 MISS DIOR EDT(1947). It was reformulated in 1992 by Edmond Roudnitska MISS DIOR EDT (1992). Dior started naming this DNA Miss Dior EDT ‘Originale’ in 2011 MISS DIOR EDT Originale (2011). The formulation drastically changed in the Miss Dior by Francois Demachy in 2013 MISS DIOR EDT (2013) and 2019 MISS DIOR EDT (2019), as this was a continuation of the Miss Dior Cherie DNA. In 2024 a new Miss Dior Parfum by Francis Kurkdjian was launched.

I first discovered this vintage EDT as a miniature, which I can’t seem to date (batch code 53, REF: 162 077) and I ended up finding a spray bottle that as far as I could research, is from 1970. It was still sealed when I picked it up and it held up remarkably well. One of my favorite florals, chypres and vintages to date.

Despite aging, the opening retained a lot of brightness, in a greener, mossy way. Miss Dior was originally inspired by Chypre de Coty and green chypre it is. I would not have been surprised if there was some civet in here, but likely it’s aged neroli giving a sharp acidic (some would say pissy) edge, bordering on animalic. It also has that typical aldehydic and baby-powdery tinge for a moment.

As it dries, it becomes more mossy and spicy. It warms up and gets a tad sweeter to balance the greenness with jasmine, tuberose and rose as a floral heart. Perhaps surprisingly, it has a leathery facet that weaves in and out; some wears I get a lot of it, some barely.

As the story goes, Miss Dior originally flopped upon release in 1947, as women found it overpowering (only 150 bottles sold in the first year according to France Actuelle). Today, it’s a true gem.