GUCCI
MEMOIRE D’UNE ODEUR

2023

PERFUMER
Alberto Morillas

chamomile

coral jasmine
musks

vanilla
sandalwood
cedarwood

‘Presenting a universal scent: Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur, a fragrance that transcends gender and explores the power of memory. Blended by master perfumer Alberto Morillas, under the House’s vision, the scent establishes a new olfactive family, Mineral Aromatic. Grown around Rome in terraced gardens since the 16th and 17th centuries, chamomile blends its green aromatic scent with Indian Coral Jasmine, a flower known for releasing a more powerful scent at night. Musks add depth to the fragrance, while Cedarwood and Sandalwood bring intensity to its structure.’ – Gucci

Memoire d’une Odeur starts off as a weird scent, that I don’t fully love, but I do kind of love that it’s been released. It’s not your average designer release, made to grab the attention and appeal to a younger crowd. Instead Memoire d’une Odeur feels like quite the outlier as far as big releases go.

The main element here is chamomile and to be honest, it smells as outdated and old-fashioned here as it always does. There are few things that scream ‘old people’ as much as chamomile in a fragrance to me, so… it is what it is.

The pairing here is semi-sweet, with the bitterness from almonds. Frankly, it smells a bit like a band-aid at first. I get more and more florals and the scent gets a bit more room to breathe in the drydown, making for a surprisingly pleasant, subtle wear. There’s a dewy quality to the florals with some pencil shavings in the background.

I think this scent could appeal to people who like slightly rooty, earthy or green iris fragrances and generally people who go for herbal scents.

For me, the opening was interesting, but not great, but the more I wore it, the more I enjoyed it and I’ll probably come back to the sample in the near future to see how I feel about it then.