ELLA K
MELODIE D’ALTAI

2018

PERFUMER
Sonia Constant

Leather
Amber
Styrax
Saffron
Vetiver
Patchouli

‘The Altaï Mountains, Kazakhstan: a remote corner of the country, squeezed between China and Mongolia, where the harsh conditions are only rivaled by the wild beauty of the landscape. Here, nature is in its primal state and the vast open spaces generate an intoxicating impression of freedom. In the distance an eagle swoops on its prey and in its wake a majestic Kazakh cavalcade.’ – Ella K

Ella K is a brand headed by owner and perfumer Sonia Constant (who you might know from Jean Paul Gaultier Le Belle/Le Beau, a lot of the Narciso Rodriguez, Tom Ford Noir Extreme, Noir Femme, Ombre Leather, Orchid Soleil and many more gems). It’s one of the best and in my opinion underrated houses that really stands out in the quality and vibrancy of the materials used. And Melodie D’Altai is my absolute favorite from Ella K.

Melodie D’Altai blew my mind from the moment I smelled it. It’s the best gourmand-leather fragrance I’ve smelled, and it might be suitable as well for people who don’t love leather. Not only is this my favorite Ella K, it has had a spot in my collection’s top 5 the year after I bought it. As of mid 2024 I’d still rank it in my top 15-20.

This is very sweet, almost chewy, resinous, vanilla, but also fruity to my nose. There are no fruits listed, but to me this is to leather, what Herod is to tobacco, or even more so. Something between dried fruits and fruit gummy bears play a prominent role in the entire wear for me. In a weird way I get a connection between the fruity, spiciness from Yves Saint Laurent Tuxedo and the mid of the wear from Melodie d’Altai, although the latter has much more of a vanillic profile.

I love the balance of the leather here. On one hand it’s a bit animalic, like the smell of raw hide. On the other, it’s warm, cozy and pretty much overpowered by the sweetness. It’s also prominent for the entire wear, but it’s not as dominating as you’d expect a leather with an animalic tinge to be. It’s not challenging in any way, not like Francesca Bianchi Under My Skin (which you might expect based on the brand’s description), not even as daring as the somewhat similar Tyger Tyger.  This is sensual, not sexual. It’s date night, but perfectly suitable for the other nights as well and it’s 100% unisex.

Melodie D’Altai is probably the fragrance I’ve recommended people to try more than anything else in my collection. I think it’s a masterpiece and one that deserves more of the limelight.