Performance is one of the most discussed facets of fragrances online. I feel like the more you get into fragrances and especially niche fragrances, the less important performance seems. I for one couldn’t care less, but I know that a lot of people are in search for their next ‘beast mode’ perfume. And let’s be honest, every once in a while we all crave something that makes a statement. Here are some of the best performers I’ve encountered. I’ve tried to mostly incorporate fragrances that excel in both projection and longevity. and I stuck to fragrance that I actually love.
Moresque Contessa
Aside from the beautiful bottle, Contessa stuck with me as a massive fragrance, that can be quite demanding to wear. A similar scent profile to Casamorati 1888, but thrice the performance.
Marc-Antoine Barrois Encelade
Easily one of the strongest perfumes that I’ve tried. I can not wear this with heavy sprays, 1, maybe 2 sprays is the only way to really enjoy Encelade for me. Beautiful and unique fragrance at that.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood EDP
It’s hard to talk about nuclear performance without addressing Oud Satin Mood (or Baccarat Rouge 540). Oud Satin Mood (especially the EDP) is mostly loud. Projecting to the point that I found it hard to find occasions to wear it.
Chanel Le Lion
Le Lion was a real surprise; while retaining some ‘Chanel class’, it’s sweeter and way louder than anything that came before it in the Les Exclusifs line. Not only is it loud, the first time I wore it, I could confidently smell it on myself after 20+ hours.
Noeme Aman
A bit of an odd one out as the scent feels subtle, but the performance took me by surprise. A very specific style of fragrance, with vanilla-florals (gardenia mostly) that leans a tad green as well. Similar to Liquides Imaginaires Blanche Bete and Benigna Premier Amour, but Aman takes it a step further with it’s projection and sillage.
Hiram Green Hyde
Arguably the strongest perfume that I’ve worn. Which is extra notable given that it’s fully natural (synthetics tend to perform better). Hyde opens barely wearable to me, with a burnt, roasted forest fire. It takes several hours to ‘get good’ for me (hence I ended up selling my bottle). However it sweetens up with a beautiful vanilla and incense that lasted me 24 hours.
Nishane Ani EDP
Another odd one, as Ani as well seems to project way beyond its norm. A rather fresh vanilla, with an aromatic twist. It does not feel dense or thick, but it will permeate the space around you for many hours and can be surprisingly overwhelming with a lot of sprays. Contrary to some peoples expectations, Ani X is a tamer release.
Orlov Walk On The Wild Side [#AD]
Another one that really surprised me. Orlov’s ByOrlov line is mostly easy-going and seems more feminine -and Summer focused to my nose. Walk On The Wild Side combines fresh fruitiness with a pine-like leather (think of Floraiku Between Two Trees or Memo Irish Leather with more fruits). Performance is absolute nuclear here.
Xerjoff 40 Knots
Probably my favorite from this list. 40 Knots is pretty much the only aquatic scent that I really love. Rather unique in the way the salty sea breeze wears, with a lot of rose and vanilla alongside it. Not quite a sun tan lotion, not quite marine-like, but a touch briny and mineralic. Both projection and longevity are about as good as I’ve seen in a Summer-appropriate fragrance.
Rasasi La Yuqawam Pour Homme
I could’ve putten a lot of leather fragrances on this list, as they tend to perform well. Rasasi La Yuqawam, at its price point, is hard to beat; both in scent and performance. Definitely a clone of sorts for Tom Ford Tuscan Leather. One of the few 20 hours performance beasts in my collection.
Maison Crivelli Oud Maracuja
Oud Maracuja joins the realm of ever-prominent ‘amberwoods’. This style seems to have taken over the perfume industry in 2023. One thing it does is create epic longevity, but I tend to strongly dislike it (Frederic Malle Uncut Gem being the poster child). Oud Maracuja however, works. Impressive longevity on the citrussy-fruity aspect, followed by one of the more acceptable amberwoody drydowns.
Dior Homme Parfum
Last, but not least. Arguably the best designer flanker ever created. It has a holy grail status, in part because of availability issues in some countries. I think it should also be hailed for its performance. Longevity is good, but it’s the projection and sillage that are huge. I tend to taste DHP in my mouth after I spray it.