PRISSANA
MANDARAVA
2018
PERFUMER
Prin Lomros
Bodhi tree
Boneol
Jasmine Sambac
Champaca
Ylang-Ylang
marigold
Frankincense
Myrrh
Styrax
Rose
Lotus
Cinnamon
synthetic Civet
cypriol
Ruh Khus (Vetiver)
Ebony
Sandalwood
Indian Oud
Patchouli
Oakmoss
Gardenia
Coriander
Tolu Balsam
benzoin
Aldehyde
cumin
Amber
Tuberose
Ash
Mandarava is my favorite Prissana so far and arguably my favorite work that I’ve tried by Prin Lomros. It joins my permanent collection of his works, alongside Burning Ben & Salted Green Mango.
Warm, earthy, rich. Sweet, but not overly so, more classy and regal to me. Woody, but there’s a growing floral edge to Mandaraya, adding more facets and complexity than the often heavy-handed ouds in a similar style. A slightly metallic, rusty quality to this, probably in the florals.
The list of notes for this is massive, but what stands out for me is the earthy woodiness (patchouli, oud, sandalwood), the sweetness (frankincense, resins) and the florals (champaca, jasmine, rose). I’ve seen this listed as a leather scent, and while I can see it, to me this feels more woody than leather.
It doesn’t progress all that much during the wear on my skin. Most of the acidity seems to come from a civet-like, daring side; it doesn’t have a much brighter opening. The drydown is mostly a fiery amber on my skin, but a sharper floral edge remains throughout and I think the florals are what makes this fragrance special.
Mandarava is one of the most beautiful, rich smelling experiences I’ve had and it’s reminiscent of the (higher priced) work of Ensar Oud and probably outdoing anything that I’ve tried from Areej Le Dore or Bortnikoff to this point. Which makes Mandarava at $160/30ml a really solid option.
If there is one complaint that I could have, is that it’ leans heavily on the heart -and base notes. A more prolonged brighter opening would’ve made for an even more dynamic ride. For an opulent, darker floral-amber, this is up there with my favorites for sure and it was one I happily added to my collection after sampling.
