MEMO PARIS
MADURAI
2022
PERFUMER
Gael Montero
Turmeric
Jasmine Sambac Absolute
Peach
Bergamot
Clary Sage
Tuberose Absolute
Jasmine Absolute
Tagetes
Sandalwood
Suede
‘A memory of India, steeped in the rich and airy fragrance of jasmine sambac and the creamier scent of sandalwood, is what guided the composition of Madurai. A fragrance that stirs the senses with vibrant notes of citrus and turmeric, like a colourful market stall.’ – Memo Paris
‘I created Madurai thinking about a wonderful trip to South India a few years ago. I remember one morning, sitting on a small terrace drinking tea. All my senses were alert. In the warm air, the intoxicating perfume of the flower sellers; the power of the spices and the sweetness of the mangoes from the stalls…. The rich and airy jasmine sambac of the offering necklaces and the creamy scent of sandalwood around the temples.’ – Gael Montero.
After being quite blown away by Shams Oud, I figured I’d need to check out more Memo. Throughout the years, I can’t say the brand has been all that impressive in general and unfortunately, Madurai doesn’t quite come close to being as good in my opinion. That being said, I’m probably not the target audience for this one.
Madurai is listed as a white floral, but it’s very fruity. The listed jasmine and tuberose don’t make this a strong, indolic or deep white floral, instead Madurai feels like the kind of fruity musk that’s been popular and I believe Memo has quite a few of those.
Peach is the listed fruit that stands out, but there’s a clear watery and bubblegummy melon scent to my nose. The melon recalls ‘happy-go-lucky’ early 2000’s, teenage perfumes in my head. I like the floral facets when they come through, but overall, it’s a bit too ozonic and a lot too fruity to really work on my skin.
Madurai leans traditionally feminine, but mostly leans youthful to me.
If anything, Madurai makes me want a real jasmine-centric perfume from Memo, as I feel there’s something in here that has potential, but Madurai doesn’t take it in the direction that I enjoy with Madurai.